The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Doors door latch

Which is the difference in latches between 47-51 and 52-55. My truck is suppose to have a 49 cab, but I'm not sure about the doors. They have 52-55 exterior handles and latches, but it doesn't have the vent window. Looking at pictures, it seems that 47-51 and 52-55 latches have 3 screws, but the upper one seems to be, on the 47-51 closer to the exterior of the door, while the 52-55 closer to the interior. Shall I go with what I have right now or will the 47-51 fit in order to have the door latch correctly matched to the cab year?

The early, prior to 52 had the pull down handles. The PO must have upgraded to the later push button handles and coresponding latches. If your door latches are working properly I'd leave them alone, unless you want to be year correct? If you go that route, it would be a lot of work to install the vent windows and change out the latches and handles. The popular option is to do away with the vent window and go with the early door glass. Another note about the early latches, the repop replacements "suck"! Other option is trade doors with another bolter.

I don't want to go that far as changing doors, actually my doors don't have the vent. The latches don't work fine, that's why I want to change them. I have to drive with the window down and my arm outside in order to avoid the door to open. My choice was actually repo. Now you've got me thinking. I wanted to put the 47-51 latches, since the cab is 49, but don't know if they will work if the door has now 52-55, besides, 47-51 are more expensive. Handles are already changed to 52-55.

Thanks

If your having a problem with the door(s) latching and staying closed, you need to determine which doors you have. Does it appear that the area where the door handle mount has been altered? Look inside for welds/fabrication. The area where the vent window would go would have to have been cut out. If they have changed the later (newer) type doors, did they change out the striker plates? In most cases the door latches are just worn out, or need some special attention in order to get them working right. Have you checked the tech tips for adjusting doors? Do a search for any information you can find out about the different type doors/latches, also how to make repairs. In order to get the doors to operate properly all components have to be in order. That means good hinges, weatherstrip, latches and strikers.

Chinito, one picture is worth a thousand word. just take the picture and somebody tell you what you need.
Alfonso

I installed new latches and striker plates. Repro stuff. No matter what I do I can`t get the pawl to climb high enough to engage the ratchet. I`m begining to think that either the latches or striker plates are the culprit. Maybe both. Any advice welcomed.
The original stuff I took out was dimensionally beat, welded up and beat again so I have no clue what stuff should measure. Does anyone sell good repro stuff?

I know some guys won't agree but I installed all new latches and strikers on my AD and they work just fine.

When you close your door without the mechanism, does everything line up? If it does I can't imagine why you're having the problems you're having. Those parts are pretty much in a fixed location because there no up/down slop to adjust.

Get SERVICING CHEVROLET TRUCK CABS reprint, I learned a LOT about doors from that little pamphlet.

Woody,

I agree. I have replaced latches and strikers on two trucks ("repo stuff" - Classic Parts & Jim Carter); and, at the same time I rebuilt the hinges. After adjusting for fit & appearance, the doors close/latch/open just fine.

Would you tell us the company and part number for that manual/book? Your link works for you because it finds a cookie on your PC. It's no good for us.

Thanks,

Hey I just fingured it out. I didnt have the outside handles on. Made all the difference. One thing I also did was drill out the rivet the holds the pawl and lightly grind some of the mating surfaces with a die grinder.Made a new rivet on the lathe and reasembled That repro latch is definetly smoother now than out of the box.
When I get bored, really really bored, I`m gonna try to rebuild the original latches (again) Seems to be nothing but weld up and gring smooth type of wear.

Hello All,

Here's my door issue. I have a 1951 1/2 ton panel that has an original door on
the driver's side and a 52 door I acquired for the Passenger side. (The truck came with a 50 door which I don't wish to use due to lack of a vent window.)

For right now I'm ok with two different handles, but has anyone changed striker plates from an 47-51 to the 52-54 style to accommodate the push button
door handle/latch from the later door? OR, can you simply use the door latch from the earlier door in the 52 door?

THanks!
Squire

PART # DG-62

Filling Station.

Hi Woody.

Does this book include the 48 cab and doors?

Yes, '47 to '50... just missing info on the vent windows but everything else is covered.