The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts Confused about front axle width

From what gathered here, the front axle width (WMS to WMS) of an AD 1.5 ton is approximately 69.5". Well, I just measured mine (three-times to be exact) and it's 66".

I'm, confused.

BTW, does anyone happen to know what the front width of a 60-67 3/4 or 1-ton(A-arm frame) is WMS to WMS?

I'm not sure where you got the 69.5" from, but I supposed it is published somewhere. So why are you curious? Are your tires rubbing something or what? Are you sure you have a 1 1/2 ton. How many lug bolts do you have?

I can go measure my AD 1.5-ton front axle for you but you'll have to refresh my memory on what WMS stands for (no coffee yet this morning ...)

John

WMS stands for Wheel Mounting Surface, the flat part on the hub where the wheel sits.

When putting together this tech tip
http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/bigbolts/p30swap/
I measured a 48 2 ton front axle at 69-70" I'll double check this evening and should be able to get a more accurate measurement too. Perhaps I measured, remembered, or wrote it down wrong, what measurements do other folks get?

Grigg

After careful measurement and averaging to remove inaccuracies of camber and toe-in the 48 two ton front axle I have is 69-15/16" from WMS to WMS.

Grigg

Weird. I just measured mine again more exactly. The width is 65 9/16" front of flange and 65 3/4" rear of flange. Maybe I have some sort of "freak".

You did say 1.5 ton, and I said 2 ton.
I know there are differences in the two, was not aware of width differences but it's not surprising.

Who else can measure some AD 1.5 and 2 ton axles?
Measuring technique is also important. It ia a good idea to clamp or have someone hold a straight edge on the wheel mounting surface (wheels removed) while you do the same on the other side and pull a tape measure parallel to the ground between the two. Also measure in front and behind so you can average and remove toe-in from the equation.

Grigg

From memory, the 1-ton and standard 1-1/2 ton use the same axle with different hubs. The heavier 1-1/2 and 2-ton use a different heavier axle. The differences in width may be a slight differences in hubs.

Does your truck have Huck or Bendix front brakes? I don't know that brake type changes width, but it could.

I have a '51 4400 and a '52 6400 parked out back, but currently am in no condition to measure the widths. Anyone in the Seattle area want to come to Bainbridge Island and measure them? I'll supply the trucks and tape and might even watch.

unholy1, I'm not sure what you are measuring when you refer to the front and back of the flange. If it is the wheel mounting flange. you may have a bent tie rod or someone screwed it in all the way. I have a 53 GMC 2 ton, but it has wheels on it.

Same here, when I get a chance I'll pull them and measure it too.

Grigg

Why is it significant, unholy? I can only echo crenwelge's question, "is it rubbing or something"?

I'm swapping the front axle for later model 1-ton stuff for disc brakes and more wheel options.

It would seem that if the widest axles the responders have listed will fit the chassis
then you will have to stay close to that dimension. Keep in mind that the turning angle of the new axle may not be the same as the original and that could lead to some fitment/clearance issues. What newer trucks are you considering?

And thanks for clearing things up for us, it was little confusing.

The later model 1 ton (and slightly larger) GM I-beam axles are still to wide to fit as they are.

Don't know about independent fronts, but expect they are also to wide.

Did you check out the axle swap stuff in the tech tip I linked to in an earlier post?

Hard to offer advice not knowing what you're after in the end, but don't think there is an easy way to swap disc brakes on one of these trucks. As far as bolt patterns, 8 lug and smaller wheels seems a step in the wrong direction if you want a 1.5 ton truck?

Grigg

99.9% of the time the truck will be a cruiser. I may, occasionally, tow my 7k car trailer with it.

For a cruiser and an occasional 7k trailer pull, I would think 3/4 ton would be a more logical starting point than a 1 1/2 ton. The cabs are the same.

I logged on tonight to ask a similar question. We are taking frame to be sandblasted this week and would like to put newer disk brake type axle under front. What is best way to go? We were going to mount body on 1988 3/4 ton but were told this wasnt so simple. How do I get a safer more modern setup under the current body and/or frame?

One method is to swap the front axle (and rear axle too if you like)
http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/bigbolts/p30swap/
Read through that, it's doable, but not simple.

Grigg

unholy1

I once swapped a 1976 front a-arm axle one ton and put it on my 1967 C-30 and it did end up about 7inch wider. Does that help any?...................Flat67