The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 216 not starting. Timing pics. New pics,

I gave it my first shot yesterday but just wouldn't go. Popped a couple times through the carb and a couple times through the exhaust in 20 tries to start it.
It's getting fuel, plugs were wet. Have not done a compression test yet, should be tomorrow.
All plugs have a spark, but 2 were a bit weak. Plan to do some clean up on the connections today. Hoping/thinking this is the problem.
The timing. I've added a few pics to see if this looks right. The distributor rotor is rotated a little further than I thought I would see. As shown in the pics. Does this look right? Any insight would be great.
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b241/Allteeth/1946%20Chevrolet%20Pickup/IMG_0170.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b241/Allteeth/1946%20Chevrolet%20Pickup/IMG_0171.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b241/Allteeth/1946%20Chevrolet%20Pickup/IMG_0172.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b241/Allteeth/1946%20Chevrolet%20Pickup/IMG_0176.jpg

Do you have the corect firing order. Looks like the timing is close enought to run.

What is the photo of the open points about? They should be just starting to open, as determined with a meter. If they are wide open when it is timed to the mark, it will be way out. Also I see thst the rotor is pointing to the side pan. Is that where you have the wire to #1 ?

With the ball in the poisition your pic shows, the points should just barely be open. A good way to check it is to hold a test light onto the (-) terminal of the coil with the ignition switch in the run position, turn the distributor housing clockwise until the points close, and then turn back CCW until the test light just comes on. Lock the distributor down in that position. Be very sure both valves are closed on the cylinder you're trying to align tne rotor with. The ball aligns twice, once on #1 compression, and again on exhaust. The #1 cylinder should have both valves closed when you time the distributor to the plug wire.
Jerry

Firing order is correct. 153624 starting with 1 at 12 o'clock going clockwise.
The points, in this position, are pretty much fully open. Not correct. In my earlier searching I came across the directions you two describe. With a few of the guys from work over yesterday we set it and double/triple checked it. It is not correct now. Hmm.
Heading outside to check it out now.

Aaron

Not quite getting the setting I want. Am I one tooth off with the distributor...?
Tried starting it today and it is turning over pretty slow. The battery is fully charged. Considering turning it over with a 12 volt battery.
I thought maybe the clutch was stuck but the truck moves easily when pushed. The clutch pedal is very soft, like the return spring is the only tension on it.
I'll keep at 'til she goes. Aarrgg.

Have you checked to see that the two valves on #1 both have clearance (ie completely closed) when the rotor is pointing at # 1 spark plug wire? It will not run if that is the case. You can do this by putting the pointer at the ball with the rotor pointing at #1 and with the valve cover off, check to see that there is play in the rockers of both valves on #1.

If everything is set, I would dump a little gas down the carb and give it a try. If the timing is too advanced, it will stop dead in the middle of cranking. If you are near success, the motor will start to turn faster and you might hear some muffled explosions.

By the photos it appear you are 180 degrees out on the distributor. Rotor should point at #1 plug wire on cap, and steel ball on pointer and points just barely open.

Well, as I thought, it was turning over way to slow. I removed the cover on the clutch and found...Is this what I think it is??

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b241/Allteeth/IMG_0178.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b241/Allteeth/IMG_0177.jpg

Yes I had the exact same thing in my old truck year ago. It took a while to get all the mouse fodder out. Also make sure you have a good connection and strap for the ground. Most importantly make sure u are using a 1guage positive battery cable. A 2 guage or smaller for a 12V system gives inadequate resistance within a 6v system. Been there done that!

How exactly did you go about getting it all out? I dropped the bottom cover and removed what I could with my hand then used a coat hanger to pull some but I don't think I am anywhere close to solving this problem. Will I have to remove the bell housing and clutch assembly to get it all? It is really stuck in there, that cotton stuff really packs quite hard.
When I pulled the bottom cover there was very little laying down there. It is all crammed in and around the clutch.

yes you need to take it all apart, that is if you're really planning on getting the truck on the road .... all moving parts will be stuck hard together and everything will have enough corrosion from the mouse [censored] that you'll need to have the flywheel resurfaced and no doubt replace the pressure plate

Bill

I hate micses to pieces

Got a few hours of work done in the past few days. I was surprised how easy the tranny came out, especially pulling it by myself. Cleaned out all the cotton mouse house in the clutch. No corrosion. Looks like when I first turned it over I sucked all the mouse house from the bottom of the bell housing into the clutch. Glad I did pull it apart because it would have never worked properly it was packed full. I decided to turn the engine over at that point to see if it was any better. I wasn't. After a LOT of reading on here it hit me like a ton of bricks- a little bit of oil down each cylinder and she turned over great!

Thanks for the help all, would have be very tough to manage without the excellent advice.

Lowbow keep us posted on your progress.

This morning I put everything back together. I checked the timing for the millionth time, all was good. Checked and cleaned grounds and connections, poured a touch more oil in each cylinder, replaced plugs and wires while I was waiting for the battery tender to charge the battery. After it was fully charged I gave her a little choke and pumped the throttle on the carb twice. Since I was alone I just used a big flat head screwdriver as a lever in the foot stomp linkage to try and start 'er up. On the first try it started to catch and gave me a little scare. The second try she started right up. I would have been happy even if it ran rough but it didn't, running great.
Got oil pressure, oil at the rockers, temp was good. Only problem was the water leaking at back of tranny. We'll see how that turns out in the other thread.

Thanks for the help all, much appreciated!
Aaron

Well that makes my day! They sound pretty sweet when they are running right, don't they?

The sound is amazing to hear for the first time.
Very exciting!
Looking forward to driving it to work for the first time.