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#67238 10/16/2006 6:47 PM | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 345 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 345 | Thanks to input from Don Bukar, another member on this site, I just put [new] wheels and tires on my truck and am thrilled with the results.
The rims are off a late 90's f#$d econoline 350 (1 ton), but I think they are the same as the 250's or 3/4 tons. They are 16" x 7" and have a 4" backset. I installed 3/16" shims on the front and with the shims they just clear the tie rods. I mean, when you say "by a nat's ***" this is it. The good news is that these rims are very common. You can use a few hub cap options, one that covers everything, and others that cover just the center hub assembly. If there is any way that someone can come up with to convert the center cover to a dome that simulates the original 1/2 moons, then we'd all be dancin'. | | |
#67239 10/18/2006 8:36 PM | Joined: Aug 2003 Posts: 108 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2003 Posts: 108 | lorber,
I put "modren" 8-lug rims on my '53 3/4 ton, too. Initially, I found that the tie rod end would interfere with the rim (but only on a sharp right turn, I believe), so I spaced the left front rim out from the hub with lock washers on each stud. Recently, doing some routine checks/ maintenance, I discovered that the tie rod end was interfering mostly with just the balancing weight on the inside lip of the rim, and that a rim w/o any balancing weights on the inside lip would work OK. For good measure I took a big file and shaved down the part of the tie rod end that was close to the rim, and now I have clearance (it's close, but OK) with no spacers, which makes me feel much better about my lug nuts. Of course, I don't know if my backset is the same as yours, but you might check out the balancing weight and the possiblity of trimming down your tie rod end... Food for thought. Tyler | | |
#67240 10/18/2006 9:13 PM | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | If it's just the balancing weights that are causing the tie rod interference issue, request the the wheels be balanced with tape weights on th einside of the wheel. Any competent tire shop can do this. On using spacers; Please use actual wheel spacers, washers,lock type or plain, do not alow for proper seatng of the wheel to the hub. This is VERY dangerous and is also illeagal by DOT standards. Wheels need to have a flat solid surface to seat properly and to allow for correct lug nut torque, using washers does not allow that.
Bill Burmeister | | |
#67241 10/19/2006 3:48 AM | Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 62 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 62 | That's very true about the flat spacers vs.washers. The spacers I used were machined from a flat plate and I used modern lug nuts to hold the rims in place. The old, original nuts didn't secure the rims properly. | | |
#67242 10/19/2006 4:01 AM | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 | Do you mean "Modern" wheels Tyler? And what brand, size, style are they? Denny Graham Sandwich, IL
Denny G Sandwich, IL
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