The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts 1958 2ton: To shorten frame or swap parts?

For those that want to read through the story, looking for opinions/advice on shortening a 2ton frame or parting it out:

A bit of context: I acquired a 59 1.5 ton truck with 132" wheelbase + dump body. The condition of the truck ended up being much worse than I was expecting, exhibiting plenty of past neglect. I've gotten a bit discouraged with the project as everything needs attention; I've spent a fair amount on parts and a good amount of time but am realizing that I'm in for a LOT more $$ if I want to fix all the functional problems this thing has.

On to my current situation: I found a '58 2ton truck (kicker: 174" WB), seems to be quite original and was offered for a pretty good price. The truck doesn't have a bed on it. The body is in excellent shape (paint is faded...least of my worries!) and it is in surprisingly good running condition. I put gas in her, made sure radiator fluid was topped off and drove her 95miles home (90+ degrees too!) with no interesting events to speak of...just my grin the whole way home.

I had bought the 2ton with the intention of replacing all that is awful on my 1.5ton. (Cab, front axle/springs and engine primarily...then possibly the rear axle/springs as my 1.5ton springs look pretty tired and I don't know what shape my 2spd is in...but I know the 2ton's 2spd is happy to split!) Shoot, the 261 in the 2ton even runs better than the GMC 270-swap that's in my 1.5ton.

But now I'm having doubts about parting out the 2ton, having found what good shape it is in and the evidence that it has been kept in good operating order.

I'm going to be studying the frame diagrams in the assembly manual this weekend...but I'm wondering if the extra 3.5' can be hacked out of the middle of the 2ton, shortening it to allow installation of my short WB dumpbody. The alternative is that I proceed as before, stripping parts off of the 2ton for use on the 1.5ton. I'm doing all this as an enthusiast (although I look forward to any opportunity I have to use my truck!) so I really don't have a practical use for such a long wheelbase.

The thing I want to avoid is ending up with an even bigger pile of rubble and a lighter bankaccount to show for it. I don't have experience welding, let alone chopping frames, so I would need to seek out expertise in this area. I love doing things myself and the learning process involved but I also don't want to ruin a truck that has survived the last 50+ years without serious incident.

Take care!
--Denney

Just shortened my 1953 for a eight foot stepside bed .Took off the twelve foot flat bed.Will try to post the pictures later .I have a few pictures of the truck posted already ,check my profile to view them.This is about the thirteenth one I have shortened or stretched .Email me if you have any questions and decide to do yours !

I have done a lot of frame work. I like to cut them, weld the web of the frame and then put a C channel on the outside of the frame. I then put a cross member at the splice and bolt it together with flange bolts. http://www.imperialinc.com/items.asp?item=0191980

From looking in your pictures looks like yo may have the RH-5 wheels on the red truck, if so you'd want different ones.
Read about the different types of 20" wheels here
http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/wheels/

Grigg

I'm in the process of shortening my 3800 as well.

http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2920050430101465522YLSavk

Hey Grigg!
I've read a lot on the forums about wheels, as it seems to always be a hot topic. Properly identifying the RH-5 wheels seems tricky for a guy non-acquainted though; maybe it's best to 'rule out' which wheels they are 'not' as suggested in the Tip. My front wheels are NOT RH-5 due to the outer ring being present?
I'll try and get some pictures of the new 2ton truck (also faded red :)).

Thanks for the photos, Tri5 and Webster and the rest of the input I've already gotten!

Crenwelge: "welding the web"...does that mean the inside channel of the frame?
When installing the C-channel on the frame, does it have a lip (measurement 'D') like this: http://www.johnsonrollforming.com/images/profiles/CC-1002.jpg
It seems the lip would make it harder to 'clip' onto the outside of the frame, unless the C-channel is slipped onto one section of the frame before welding the two together.
Or maybe the C-channel that'd be used for this job wouldn't have that lip?
Would you weld the C-channel to the frame...or is it flange-bolted to frame when you bolt in the crossmember?

Thanks much! This is seeming more like a possibility!

Instead of cutting the frame, you could torch or drill the rivets out of the rear spring hangers, move the rear end forward, then drill holes for the hangers and bolt them in place. Thats what I did with mine.

Sliding the suspension forward and re riveting or bolting it is a great option, but depending on the shape of the frame it is not always possible.

Dliptak, I have c chanels bent to wrap outside of the frame without the extra flanges you show on your photo. What you picture looks like a cee purlin. The web refers to the vertical part of the frame. The flanges which are the horizontal pieces on top and bottom of the web. They are the ones that actually are the strength. If you are going to actually work the truck, be sure to put a crossmember at the splice. If you are just going to use the truck for parades, etc. you can get away with just cutting, making a v to weld in and weld a diamond shape patch inside the frame. But this is not recommended for a truck that is going to work hard. Although moving the suspension up is common practice on today's straight frame class 8 trucks, it is usually not possible on 2 tons with tapered frames.

I've been thinking about doing the same thing with my firetruck. It currently has a factory 10 foot flat bed which has been extended to 12 feet. Since I already have a 10 foot flat bed, I don't know if I really need a 12 foot flat bed, I might like it better with a 8ft. pick up bed modified to fit over the dual 20" wheels.
chris ioakimedes

I posted more pictures of the frame.

I would recommend that you use a C channel reinforcement that fits inside the existing frame member. This way there is no interference with body mounting and it looks much better.

If you need someone to do it, Dino Diesel in Sedalia, CO, 303-688-3611, has done 40 or 50 units for me over the years and is the most fantastic welder I've ever known.