The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay Ammeter to light switch?

Just about done doing the final check on the wiring for my truck. But the same issue keeps nagging at me.
The truck is a 46 with all original gauges, switches, 6 volt etc. The harness is from Jim Carters.
The diagram from Old Online Chevy Manuals shows a wire from BAT on the voltage regulator to the ammeter then to the light switch.
The harness skips the ammeter and goes from the BAT to the light switch.
Do I need a jumper in there?

Thanks, Aaron

Hy lowbow, are you saying that your ammeter would only have a wire on one terminal then? If that is the case then yes you would need a "jumper wire" to duplicate the diagram as it appears in the online manual. If my memory is correct doesn't the other terminal of the ammeter connect to the starter battery cable terminal, which completes the circuit back to the battery?

Sorry, I was trying to simplify it. Perhaps a little too much.
All other wires are ok and connected:
Starter wire to left ammeter terminal AND horn to left ammeter are good. Ignition to right ammeter terminal is good too.

Having a hard time navigating my way to my diagram but this will do...
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1941/41csm283.htm
Comming off the voltage regulator "BAT" goes to the right terminal on the ammeter then to the light switch.

My harness goes from the BAT on voltage regulator to the light switch, skipping the ammeter.
Just not sure if this will be ok. Let me know if I'm still not clear, thanks.

Aaron

Somehow that BAT wire from the reg needs to be connected to the ammeter. Take a test light or a voltmeter and read between the Bat terminal on the reg to ground - is it "hot"? If so then there is another junction somewhere making that connection and you should be good to go.

Hy lowbow, as waldo53, has said if the voltage regulator BAT terminal is not hot the way the harness is attached, then you will need to make a connection between the light switch and the ammeter, or the BAT terminal and the ammeter. The way you have described how the harness is connected, I would be suprised if the regulator BAT terminal was hot, and if it is not, you should call the harness manufacturer, and tell them of the error in their design, hope that helps.

I finally got to the point where I put the battery in and connected it. With the ignition switch in the off position there is 6 volts at BAT on the voltage regulator. I used no jumper, hooked up just as the harness came from Jim Carters.
I am thinking that this is good? and that this was considered when the harness was made/designed.

Any other info for making sure I am getting it right would be welcomed....'you should see 6 volts at ____ when ____'.

Pretty excited. Cranked it over, sounded good. I tried the horn, wife said "Real manly sounding" in a sarcastic voice through the kitchen window. Of course I had to reply...."Keep cooking". I'm an idiot. May be sleeping in the truck tonight.
Hope to have it running tomorrow.
Thanks for the help.

Update:
No power at the coil. No spark.

Looking at the wiring diagram I can see that the problem I originally posted about is the problem.
The coil must get energized by the connection at the ammeter.
So plan is to remove the #8 wire from the light switch and hook up to the ammeter, the make a 'jumper' over to the light switch.
Coil should be hot after this.
Fingers crossed.
Aaron

I'm not sure I understand what you're saying but the coil is energized by a wire from the ignition switch and is only hot when the switch is ON.

My mistake. Coil is now hot. Found I had no power on coil terminal but power at the wire feeding it. Bad connection.
I do have a spark now, fuel pump is moving gas, carb looks good (thanks to PO), battery charging. Tomorrow. I hope.

I'm an idiot. May be sleeping in the truck tonight.[/quote] We all have great moments to live down.

Sucked up a little and made out alright.

Took a trip to Napa for a new ignition coil and spark plug wires but didn't work out.
Only French employees today. The only coil I got a look at was Part # 7355274. 12 volt coil, I need 6 volt. Looked on their site but came up empty handed too.
Anyone know the parts # for a replacement coil and decent replacement spark plug wires?

Had some time today to pull things apart and do some clean up.
I knew the spark plug wires were fairly new so I hadn't planned on replacing them but noticed that they were Silicone Core Suppressor Cable. After reading up on spark plug wires I am not too sure about these.
Are these a bad idea to be using?