The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Spin-On Oil Filter Adaptor

Hello, does anyone have any experience with the Spin-On Oil Filter adapters that Jim Carters sells For the 216 or 235? I was planning on buying one for my 46 along with new oil lines. Thanks

In reference to another post, I did a search first and nothing came up!

What is the part number?

This will be a bypass oil filter system right?

Are you talking about #MEO255?
If so, I'm using a similar setup.
I've got a perma-cool #1731 mounted on the side motor mount boss on my 55 235.
I used flared steel lines, but I don't recommend it.
The short one was too hard to make.
I'd recommend compression fittings or hoses.

regards,
Leon

Before locating a canister filter I plumbed in a spin-on set up on my 38. I connected it to the engine as one would a canister filter. I had no negative issues with it.

I like the set-up that Leon posted the picture of. Where can I order a kit to do that? I have a 235 dated 1956.

My setup wasn't a kit.
The perma-cool #1731 filter mount came from Summit Racing.
I made the bracket from some scrap 1/8" steel.
The Fram PH8 filter came from Wal-Mart.
The lines and fittings came from O'Reilly Auto parts.
The tight radius tubing bender came from Harbor Freight.

I used 1/4 tubing with flare fittings.
I do not recommend this -- too hard to make the short line fit. I would use compression fittings on at least one end if I were to do it again. Or hoses.

regards,
Leon

Are you guys using bypass filter elements or full flow filter elements in your bypass filter setups?

I ask for two reasons:
One is a bypass filter is a finer filter and does an excellent job on the little oil it does receive at a time. Likewise a full flow filter only does an OK job so as not to cause to much of a restriction.

Secondly if you use any type of filter (in a bypass filter system) and have no restriction in the system there is a chance you're starving the engine for oil pressure/flow because to much is dumped back into the sump by way of the filter.

A bypass filter system is a fancy oil leak.

Typically a bypass filter has a restricted fitting in the system or sometimes in the filter, or it may be the filter. (wherever it is you need to know what's going on) This fitting meters oil to or from the filter and is a compromise of how much oil can be filtered without harming the engine by depriving it of oil.

For example my Detroit manual specifies that a single orifice of 0.062" max should be used in the return line from any or all bypass filters on the engine.
This info is what you need to know for a stovebolt, if it was ever printed. And if not perhaps the restriction in a factory cannister can be measured and duplicated.

Grigg

Good points, Grigg! If a spin-on filter is used without a restrictor, and plumbed like the canister filter, the engine will definitely starve for oil. I use Holley carburetor jets for restrictors, and I can fine-tune the oil flow by swapping to a larger or smaller jet size. Just drill & tap the inside of the return line fitting to accept the jet threads. 1/4" X 28 isn't perfect, but it's close enough to work.
Jerry

I'm using a 1/16" hole for a restrictor in the return side of my bypass setup. I used a hand drill, so it probably a little sloppy.
Maybe 0.065" instead of 0.0625". I have the same oil pressure reading as I did with the canister bypass filter.

regards,
Leon

This is helpfull to me too. Thanks. I don't see how the restrictor is implemented though. Leon, you used a plug inside an adapter. How is the line connected to the adapter if it is plugged? Also, when you are using the brake hardlines, what adapter do you use to adapt the 3/8" NPT to the 1/4 brake fitting?

I put the restrictor on the "back" side of the tubing adaptor. The oil filter adapter had 3/8 pipe threads for the inlet/outlet. I used brass tubing adapters to connect to the flared lines. IIRC, both the hard lines and the tubing sadapters came from NAPA. On the back side of the outlet fitting I installed a 1/8" pipe plug with a 1/16" hole drilled in it. Here's a pic .

regards,
Leon

I guess I'm just dense. Bear with me. I assume the outer threads are 1/8 NPT to screw into either the block or filter. What are the inner threads? Then you have an adapter that has male threads that screws into this adapter into one end and the plug on the other end. Is that right? It wouldn't seem you could fit both but maybe each tightens before hitting the other. Or am I all wrong.

I'm not following either..

Here's one place to get restricted fittings with pipe thread inlet and outlets.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#flow-restrictors/=84odb8

Grigg

Thanks pointing me there Grigg. Do you know what adapter I would use to connect to the steel brake line? I plan on using 1/4" though 3/16 would work too but I like the look of the 1/4".

why even use a oil filter at all? if its pre 58 there is no reason to use on cause only 10% of ur oil will go thru it and if u keep up on oil changes u shouldnt have a problem

10% is better than 0%... no questions about that.

To connect brake line (inverted 45* flare) you'll need some adapter fittings.
Pages 33-35 in this catalog, NAPA has or can get most if not all of the fittings you'll need
http://hydraulics.eaton.com/products/pdfs/E-BRFI-MC001-E3.pdf

Grigg

Whoo Hoo! Thanks Grigg. 73scoutcrawler, it can't hurt and whenever it gets cleaner, that has to be a good thing.

u can put one on but i will serve no purpose just ask the guys at stovebolt

I hope you're not seriously considering taking advice from someone who can't spell, has never heard of capital letters, grammar, or punctuation, and doesn't understand bypass oil filtering!

The type of filter you choose will have a big influence on how effectively the oil gets filtered. Spin-on filters intended for full-flow applications have large-weave elements that have very little restriction, so enough oil gets through the filter to supply the volume needs of the engine. A bypass filter might not catch all the oil as it goes by, but the part that does go through the filter can be strained through a much finer filter media. I used to sell Frantz filters that used toilet paper as the filter media, and strained out contaminants as small as 2/10 micron. (0.0002") The average spin-on full flow filter catches particles of 5 to 8 microns or larger.
Jerry

I've seen industrial applications that use both bypass and in-line (full-flow) filters, to take advantage of the filtering characteristics that Jerry describes. The by-pass filter that catches particles as small as 2/10 micron would be catching particles measuring 0.000008", as one micron is 1/000 of a millimeter. Ten microns would be about 0.0004".

Hoyt

If I were going all out, I would use both. I think that would be a great setup on a modern injected motor. You could probably extend oil changes too. I think old carbed motors probably get enough fuel into the oil that you wouldn't want to extend it much just because of the fuel dilution as much as anything else.

I have played with this a bit and agree with 1/16” being the correct size restriction and is what is on my Amsoil mount.

First I did this

then this

Then I made one from a single pc. of aluminum including a 1/16” restrictor and using GM’s most common filter like this.

And finally I have decided the best for me is an Amsoil bypass setup with a 98% efficiency rating at 2 microns absolute
like this.

Maybe only 10% of the flow gets filtered as the oil passes through the oil journal into the bypass exit into the canister. However, 100% of all the oil gets filtered over a very reasonable cycle of time. And, the degree of filtering is supposedly superior to that provided by a flow-through, full-flow filtering system.

DennisM,

I've been out of town for a week, so I didn't get a chance to reply to your question. In the pic you can see the tubing adapter on the right. It adapts from 3/8" pipe to 1/4" inverted flare. The inner threads are 1/8 pipe that I added to screw in the pipe plug (on the left in the pic). There is plenty of room for the pipe plug to screw in without bottoming against the other end of the tubing adapter.

As I said in my original post, however, I do not recommend hard lines for an oil filter mount on the engine motor mount boss. The shorter line is so small that it was difficult to fabricate. I would recommend flex tubing or mounting the adapter further forward to the generator boss.

regards,
Leon

Hi Leon,
Thanks for getting back to me. So your saying you can put the plug with the orifice in one end and still have enough room to connecting to a male NPT?

Yes, there's enough room. The oil filter adapter has 3/8 IPT. I'm using a brass bushing to adapt that down to 1/4 IPT. It's about 3/4" long. The 1/8 plug is only about 1/4" long.


regards,
Leon

OK, thanks Leon

Let me beat this dead horse a bit more. Does anybody see a problem with running 3/16 brake line SAE or maybe AN -3? Looks like the -3 is already about 1/16" so would not need a restricter.

The 3/16" or AN-3 with 0.049" wall thickness (the thickest I see in the McMaster-Carr catalog) would have an ID of about 0.090". The -3 fittings have an ID about the same or slightly larger. One would need to do a good pressure drop calculation or a test to see if the combination of 3/16" fittings and tubing would provide the same restriction as a 1/16" orifice.

Hoyt

Using oil with no filter at all is simply pumping abrasive slurry through the engine continuously. Any filter is better than none. Changing the oil does remove some debris, but the interval has to be very short to be effective.