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I tore apart my front axle 2 years ago, and when I did I pulled off the wheel hubs, bearings, etc. A few months ago I put it all back together and everything seemed normal.

The other day, I was driving the truck, and I heard a screeching noise coming from my front left wheel.

On further inspection, I noticed the dust cap was missing and the spindle wasn't centered around the hub! :mad: I took off the wheel and found the hub to be "loose", full of play. I removed the hub and the outer bearing was completely destroyed. The spindle was a little damaged, but salvageable.

The question I have is, how did this happen? I have been driving the truck for a little while now with no problems, and then the bearing assembly completely fails. I remember noticing, the first time I put the hub onto the spindle, that it never really went on all the way in comparison to the passenger side hub. What I mean is, there was a tiny gap between the hub and the backing plate. On the passenger side, the hub went on all the way just about touching or overlapping the backing plate.

I apologize if that doesn't make sense, I'm not much of a "hub and bearing" guy.

Any ideas on how this might of happened, and how much it might cost to replace a front, outer bearing assembly for a 58 1/2 ton?

Last edited by REAL_RAT_FINK; 07/25/2010 6:06 AM.

"Effective leadership is putting first things first. Effective management is discipline, carrying it out."

---Casey---

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'Bolter
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You probably didn't have the seal in all the way and you preloaded the seal instead of the bearing. I teach my guys to measure the amount of thread left from the outer nut. If they are not the same before and after, something is wrong. You might as well put a tapered bearing and cup in while its apart. They are about $35.

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Cruising in the Passing Lane
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Any ideas on how this might of happened?

it's likely that when the one hub didn't go on all the way, you didn't get the inside bearing seated properly on the dust cup .... basicly: you put it together wrong ohwell stuff happens ... see the shop manual and follow the instructions for "hub installation" and "wheel bearing adjustment"

bearings will be available at NAPA or such, not too expensive, might as well do the set while you're at it, might have damaged the inner

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature we find it attached to the rest of the world" John Muir
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"you didn't get the inside bearing seated properly on the dust cup" ---squeeze

Dust cap on the inner bearing? Hmmm, I'm not remembering such a dust cap. This can't be good... The way its on there, the hub and it's bearings slide right onto spindle and "match up" with the large bearing that can slide onto the spindle independently of the hub. Should there be a dust cap there?

What does it look like?


"Effective leadership is putting first things first. Effective management is discipline, carrying it out."

---Casey---

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Cruising in the Passing Lane
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manual pic, #13 [called grease deflector], it's a flat donut shape with a slight lip on the outside, fits against the backing plate ... the inner bearing [#11, your "large bearing"] should be fit into the back of the hub with a seal [#12] to hold it there, it is NOT independent of the hub, the dust cup/ grease deflector is .... with the way you state it, like cren said you may not have had the inner bearing seated properly, as well as having a missing dust cap in back .... and now you need to check that spindle well to see how badly it's been scored, they can break after that kind of abuse

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature we find it attached to the rest of the world" John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" me
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Do any of the venders sell the inner dust cap?


"Effective leadership is putting first things first. Effective management is discipline, carrying it out."

---Casey---

http://s676.photobucket.com/albums/vv127/davisears/?albumview=slideshow
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,887
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Cruising in the Passing Lane
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not that I've seen, but a post in the wanted should find them

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature we find it attached to the rest of the world" John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics & Rust-a-holics Unanimous parking lot
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Originally Posted by crenwelge
You probably didn't have the seal in all the way and you preloaded the seal instead of the bearing. I teach my guys to measure the amount of thread left from the outer nut. If they are not the same before and after, something is wrong. You might as well put a tapered bearing and cup in while its apart. They are about $35.

If this was case then wouldn't the cotter pin not line up with the hole? I am just asking for my understanding and avoiding future problems. If this not the case then I need to recheck my work.

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Cruising in the Passing Lane
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the slots in the nuts are long enuff to set the pin over at least a full turn of the nut, probably 2 turns or more, thats the reason they're slotted .... you should always recheck any work your life depends on, and with things like the bearings, hubs, and brakes it's a real good plan to read and understand the manual before you do the work

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature we find it attached to the rest of the world" John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics & Rust-a-holics Unanimous parking lot
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 149
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The inner dust cap acts as a spacer, so it seems. I'm having a hard time locating a that part.

Option 1:
What if I cut my own spacer out of sheet metal?

Option 2:
Don't worry about the inner dust cap, and instead put a thin washer just before the castle nut, putting the castle nut in the right spot.

Your thoughts....


"Effective leadership is putting first things first. Effective management is discipline, carrying it out."

---Casey---

http://s676.photobucket.com/albums/vv127/davisears/?albumview=slideshow
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,887
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Cruising in the Passing Lane
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the dust cap [or grease cup] is of thin sheet metal and shaped to fit well over the inner seal to prevent hot grease from weeping into the brake drum, doesn't have anything to do with spacing - also if it is missing, the castle nut will still function correctly with respect to the cotter pin, which can be any depth into the slots ... used is what you need, not make shift

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature we find it attached to the rest of the world" John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics & Rust-a-holics Unanimous parking lot
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 149
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Wrench Fetcher
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Thank you


"Effective leadership is putting first things first. Effective management is discipline, carrying it out."

---Casey---

http://s676.photobucket.com/albums/vv127/davisears/?albumview=slideshow

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