The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Pulling the torque tube bushing

Finally got around to getting out the old torque tube bushing on my '49. Searched a wealth of experience on the 'net and succeeded in getting it out pretty easily. Next up, the install of the Okie bushing. Some new pics under the engine rebuild album on webshots.

http://community.webshots.com/user/geezer

The guy who rebuilt my original 47-55 transmission sold me an original oakie bushing and explained all I have to do is pushing the old one into the tube with the new one ....

Thats how i was instructed to do mine years ago.It worked out great.New one in front of the old one.

Well, I thought of doing that, but I'm glad I took out the old one first. The brass center of my old bushing had separated from the steel bushing itself and was riding down on the driveshaft near the rear bushing and seal. If I had driven the new one down without removing the old broken piece, I'm sure it wouldn't have gone all the way in.

Ok so I have to do this also as soon as the Filling Station sends me a new one. It is currently on back order. You say just push the new one in on top of the old one? Do I need to protect the seal from the splines on the shaft?

I've heard several bolters saying different things. Since I decided to do a complete engine rebuild, I also rebuilt the three speed tranny at the same time. I didn't want any "weak issues" down the driveline so I decided to pull the bushing. VAP sells a special extractor to pull the bushing but it is on perpetual backorder. If you are lucky and have the dowels holding the front bushing in place, I would suggest pulling the front bushing before you drive the Okie in if only to make sure that the tube space between the front bushing and rear bushing/seal is clean. Mine was not. Regarding the splines, we need to ensure that they are not jagged in any place to avoid tearing the rubber seal as you drive the Okie into the tube. Not too sure how much a visual inspection will reveal, but I plan on using my bare hand on the splines as much as I can to hopefully feel any rough spots which would need dressed with a file or sandpaper.

Take the time and extra funds and try to find a NOS one.
Mine wasn't cheap, but the transmission rebuilder was extremely knowledgable and experienced and swore by it.

It's one of those parts that only pays back over time - expecially for a daily driver.

When I get the parts in i'll address the issue again I am sure. I am thinking wrap the splines with greased masking tape (just one layer).

Not a bad idea Toyvo. May do that myself.