The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline brake issue

I took the truck on a long ride tonight to a cruise in and on the way home I seemed to be losing power.

When I got home I checked everything and it seemed fine. I jacked up the truck and could barely move the wheels. The brakes were locked up.

I adjusted them in as far as they could go but they were still tighter than I like.

I released the bleeder and got a spurt of fluid out and then they were better.

This happened the first time I took the truck out last year. I only adjusted them to solve the problem last time I did not bleed.

Tonight was the longest ride yet and I think the fluid is expanding when it gets hot and forcing the shoes out which produces more heat which expands the fluid more etc.

I plan to take the truck to Maine this weekend. 105 miles and would really not want to stop to bleed the brakes on the way nor would I like to stop for gas 3 times because I am dragging the brakes.

The pedal is about half way down to engage the brake now. As opposed to abotu 1 inch before. It is solid and it stops good.

Any recommendations to prevent tihs again. When I originally installed the brake lines I used all new parts (master, wheel cylinders, lines, shoes)after charging all the lines I filled the master to the top and sealed it up. I have not opened it since. Should I remove fluid.

Rich

PS the cruise in was a blast and supported the local DARE program. Ellie Mae (as my wife calls her)did turn a few heads there as well!

Front or rear?

I'd make absolutely sure the parts in the master cylinder are in proper order. Compare with your shop manual etc, could be holding pressure on the system.

Jim

The master is new. I did not rebuild it.
I have only had this happen twice. Normally ther is not issue on shrt rides.

Bill
Front and back but the back was worse.

Check to make sure the master is all the way released when you let the pedal up some times the peddle to master rod is not adjusted so that the master is completely at rest the return spring on the brake peddle should pull the rod out of the master far enough to release the pressure in the master every time you let the pedal up,the brake peddle should have alittle free play in it.

Pete

I will check that. It is easy enough to adjust if necessary.

But I think the issue is too much fluid in the system. When It gets hot from a long ride the pedal gets very hard.

If the pedal is fully returned and hard to push and the brakes are dragging I would think that is too much fluid,
(when I adjusted the brakes originally I set them so that the wheels woudl spin 1 to 2 turns when pushed by hand while on a jack.

The question is how much should be in there. I don't want to let off too much and have the reverse issue which would be worse.

had the same troble on my Ford.drivivg me nuts.the problem I found was the rear wheel brake cyclinders were hanging up.changed the wheel cyclinders and that fixed the problem.the truck was drove everyday and this happened .No fluid leaking at the cups.I guess old wear and dust .good luck

How old are the three flexible rubber hoses in the brake-line system?

Tim and Dan

All brake parts are new forme the master to the drums.

Rich

You are right about too much fluid. If the rod is adjusted out too far it doesn't allow the fluid to return to the reservoir. There should be a small amount of freeplay in the pedal. Pete has it right.

Only does it when it gets "hot"? I can relate to this problem. I added dual exhaust on my 53 3100 and the pipe was to close to the master cylinder, but that wasn't the main problem. My truck had been sitting around and condensation collected in the reservior. Changed out the fluid insalled heat shield problem solved.

Rich do you use the E-brake????when parked.

May need brake return springs.

Think about it if you're installing new brakes you push the wheel cly. in ,they will not go in if the master is not in the rest position ,same when they get hot the fluid expands and it needs to go some where.

Pete

Yes I use the ebrake some of the time.

I will check the rod on the master. I did all the brake work at the beginning (4.5 years ago) I can't remember adjusitng it so it is worth a shot. I suppose if thsi does not release all the way applying the brake is cumulative.

I will also check the exhaust for proximity to the master and lines. What do I use for heat shield if I need one...copper?

I also probably did over fill the system on start up. I will be adding a booster this year. Although i have not had any trouble stopping so far.

Thanks for all the help guys!
Rich

eurika!

Pete you were right. I pulled the clivas pin and the master rod could return another 1/4 inch I adjusted it then reconnected it. The only issue was the brake lights stayed on as the pedal was slightly pulled in by the master.

I then tightened the return spring and voila! I figure this ensures the master is fully extended.

I took it for a ride and it hauls! (well comparatively speaking).

I will adjust the brakes again tomorrow as the pedal had to travel a bit to engage. But when it does it is solid as always.

Will probably take a long ride first before adjusting.

I also pumped soem corn head grease into the sterring box. I am slowly replacing the stp I put in last year that is slowly leaking out. Can't wait to drive it agian tomorrow.

PS Thanks all for the advice. It is much appreciated.

The truck is running great thanks to the advice form this sight.

Good Luck,And always,Have Fun!!!

Pete

Stay frosty out there.

Drove the truck 105 miles to my place in Maine this past weekend. What a great adventure! Only had a few minor problems (none of them brake related) I will elaborate in another post.

Adjust the master cyliner per the maint manual. Remove the cover, using a flash light look straight down into bottom, you will see the pressure relief port. Carefully (it can squirt you in the eye) press the brake petal with your hand, if all is adjusted correctly, fuild will squirt up from the port and make a ripple at the surface of the fluid.

Hey......what the heck is corn head grease?!?!?!?!

It is a grease formulated for the gear boxes in corn harvesters. It works great in old truck steering boxes. What does this have to do with brakes?

Cletis,

It was a comment made in this thread by the original poster of this thread.

657159 - 06/24/10 09:18 PM Re: brake issue [Re: rust bucket 53]
rust bucket 53
Shop Shark Registered: 09/12/05
Posts: 856

Loc: Wakefield, Massachusetts

eurika!

Ask him what it has to do with brakes.

Spot