The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Rear shock mounts on a axle swap?

I am installing a 10 bolt in a 1954 3100. I am using the original size springs. What do you use for the lower shock mounts? Can I use the original strap type lower mounts that came stock? Sorry if this has been beat to death somewhere but I did the search and didn't find what I am looking for.
Thanks Jason

.... I take it you replace the entire rear end and not just change out the torque and put in a pumpkin.

So, what did you use to bolt the rear end down. U-Bolt? If so what did you use under the springs for the u-bolts to go through? If you made a plate you may want to weld you existing shock/strap mount to the plate..... welding it to the bottom or by simply welding a bolt, the correct size, to the end/edge of the plate.
Or, fab a bracket. I will say it is important, no matter what you do, to get that little "angle" like on the original. This will keep the shock from being in a bind as it will not line up nice and easy if you don't.

Another thing to think about is if you use say a 3" lowering block it will mean you will most likely have to get a set of U-bolts a little longer than normal. I found that 2" was enough on my 52 panel and used the regular store U-bolts.
Whew, didn't mean to write a book here but it depends a lot on your "specific" application.

EDIT: if you use lowering blocks you will have to use longer shocks than the original.

Thanks Achipmunk,
I am swapping out the inclosed style axle for a 10 bolt open rear. I have not bolted this rear end in yet as I do not know what to use for the lower plate. Stock had the u bolts going through two straps under the spring. One of those two straps was also the shock mount. Do I need to go to a one piece plate for the u bolts to go through or can I just re-use the original two straps? The U-bolts will no longer be going through these straps side to side any more but from front to back if I do this.
Thanks Jason

My "opinion" is to use the straps with, as you mentioned, U-bolts going the other way. Its a loooong story but in the beginning a friend of mine fabbed me a "plate" which I think is best but when I put it on I didn't have the hole for the spring center bolt in the right place and I had the holes for the U-bolts to "wide" or rather not close enough to the edge of the spirngs. So, I started over and made a set of straps. If you use straps just be sure to tighten them EQUALLY because if you run a nut up a lot farther than the other it can cause the end of the strap to not be "flat" which will throw the shock mount at a different "angle" on the end clost to the tire.

I'm still not sure if you replaced the ENTIRE rear end of just the pumpkin...... but on mine I used the original housing, cut off the original swivel brackets, bought a set of perch blocks form the dodge dealer, (Pm me and I'll send you the part #).

I might add that the center bolt that goes through the springs is not CENTERED so some positioning of the rear end is necessay whether you are using the original housing or entirely different rear end. Since I am using my original I turned my springs around and put in new bushings. Turning them around helped put the spring center bolt closer to the center but I still didn't like the way the tires looked in the fender opening so I moved the axle forward 3/4" to get it to look good.
I'm talking panel truck here so a pickup may be different?

Thank you Achipmunk,
I think I will try using the original straps. I am replacing the entire rear end. I also am going to turn the springs a round. With my measurements to scenter the axle I also will need to move it forward 3/4" to 1".
Thanks a ton for the help!