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#64989 08/29/2006 3:58 AM | Joined: Aug 2000 Posts: 248 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2000 Posts: 248 | Need some advice from the Xpurts.
Rebuilt a 261 engine fairly stock ...circa 1959 and when installing the exhaust manifold I replaced the unthreaded studs (locating studs ? )at either extremes ends of the exhaust manifold with grade 8 bolts.
Guy came over my place and said that my manifold would break with these bolts in place once the engine was fired up and came up to running temp.
He further suggested that if I was concerned with sealing the exhaust manifold that I should install regular studs and use brass nuts as they would allow for some expansion on the hot manifold.
Who is crazy... me for trying to seal the manifold with an extra bolt or does his gray hair means he is wise....???
Need to know before I fire my engine up and cause grief!!!!
Thanks for your help
Bob Carriere
Bob C.
CMP Heaven
The Hammond Barn
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#64990 08/29/2006 4:03 AM | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | Done that to mine, no problems at all. Also, the fellow that did my machine work (50= years doing it) told me that that was a good idea. Seems that was an old trick to get good sealing. I did convert the other bolts to studs/nuts though.
By the way, I used stainless nuts, not brass.
Bill Burmeister
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#64991 08/29/2006 4:14 AM | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 2,832 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 2,832 | I kind of hate to use grade eight bolts anyplace where they might have to be drilled out. This can happen with any bolt in an exhaust system. Since this is not a high tension application like a rod bolt or a wheel stud wouldn't a grade 5 do just fine? An 8 is just so hard to cut or drill.
Evan
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#64992 08/29/2006 4:17 AM | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | I have also had no problems using grade 8 equivalent stainless steel bolts to hold manifolds (Offenhauser intake and Fenton exhaust) to a 261 engine (including bolts at the two ends where studs were originally placed). Been running the engine this way since 1998. | | |
#64993 08/29/2006 9:46 PM | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | Ive put bolts or studs on the manifold ends for years on the 250-292s . Works good. I use grade 8 bolts on every thing. It is less likely you will have to drill them out.
They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | |
#64994 08/29/2006 11:28 PM | Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 887 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 887 | Do the original studs just twist out, like a bolt?
'51 Chevy 1/2 ton w/'62 261, HEI, offy, fentons, dual carter/webbers, t-5 & 12 bolt posi
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#64995 08/29/2006 11:53 PM | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 6,377 Ex Hall Monitor | | Ex Hall Monitor Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 6,377 |
Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet.
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Name your dog Naked so you can walk Naked in the park.
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#64996 08/30/2006 8:45 PM | Joined: Aug 2000 Posts: 248 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2000 Posts: 248 | Gentlemen thank you..... I consider the Brass nut myth "Busted"......
Always wanting to be safe I will change my 2 grade 8 bolts for SS and coat them with Never Seize...... just in case.
Your practical expereince is appreciated.
Bob C.
Bob C.
CMP Heaven
The Hammond Barn
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