The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop FOOT STARTER ( throw a little short)

The foot starter on my 50 3100 doesn't have a long enough throw to hit the starter switch.
I'm sure I can fix it by lenghtening the rod or something.
I was just wondering if anyone else has run in to this problem and what would cause it ?

How much are you missing it by? It may not be the foot pedal arm, but the button on top of the starter depresses about half an inch.

That could be a sign that your cab mounts are collapsed. Check those first, and if that's not the problem you can gain a little length by unscrewing the round pedal a bit.

It's hard to tell how much I'm missing it by, or exactly what is going on, because I can't be in the truck and outside at the same time and my son is away.
The strange thing is that I can, put a wrench between the firewall and the top of the arm; manually pry the arm down; it hits the switch and turns over.
So, It's more like the throw is long enough, but for some reason doing it from inside the cab (like you should), it acts like it won't hit the switch on the starter. It doesn't even begin to turn over.

If it works by using a wrench to push down the arm, then it sounds like a grounding problem. You might want to check to make sure the arm is being grounded properly and there is not a bunch of rust or anthing in the way.
The wrench can act as a ground if it pushes the arm into proper contact.

Like four on the floor says, check out to see if the cab sheetmetal is fouling the pedal.Maybe you swapped in a motor or moved the cab around upsetting the natural order of things? The pedal actually swings up as you depress it with your foot.

The lever doesn't need to be grounded, it should never carry any current. Maybe the pivot points on the bellhousing are shot? If the cab mounts are shot then your body weight will affect it. Try starting it from the passenger side.

Cab mounts like 4onthe floor says OR blots loose/bracket for the mount broke on the linkage assembly.

The electrical switch on top of the starter motor housing is often the problem when the contact will close under some circumstances and won't close under other circumstances.

I would try disconnecting the battery, removing the switch, turning the contact plate inside the switch, hooking everything back up, and give that a try. If the contact switch or the contact stud on the top of the starter motor are pitted or worn down, that is the most likely culprit, and flipping the switch contact is really a temporary fix.

One way to check for wear in the linkages between the foot pedal and the starter motor is to mash the pedal down slowly (maybe with your hand, as long as you got it in neutral!) and check for sloppiness in the linkage.

Figure that you and whoever all had the truck before you have mashed that starter pedal several thousand times. The mechanical linkage is remarkably sturdy for you and all the previous yeahwhos that have been startin' the truck for all these years, but things do wear out.

Thanks for all the suggestions and thoughts on this one.
I'm still not exactly sure what the problem is, because I didn't take everything apart, but I have a feeling it may be the bushings holding the horseshoe looking arm, to the bellhousing. It's not the switch itself (it's new).
I wadded up some duct tape and stuck it on the switch button, then I could start the truck normally. So, its only a matter of a 1/4 inch or less thats lacking.
I know the tape certainly isn't a permanent fix but, since I'm not driving the truck at the present time, I'm not too concerned about it and have time to investigate further.
Just wanted to say thanks for the imput from you guys.

Use 5 minute epoxy and glue a nut under your right shoe...
:p

Don't be usin' "Duck Tape" on an old stovebolt. It just ain't right.

There are only three acceptable "temporary" fixes for a Chevy stovebolt, so learn 'em well and don't go messin' with success.

Prince Albert Can: Useful for shimming.

Cut Prince Albert can with pocket knife
(use an old knife, or sharpen yer
new one later). Fashion shim to fit,
drive off.

Bailing wire: Useful for anything loose.

Cut bailing wire to appropriate length.
Wrap bailing wire around whatever is
loose and floppin'. Secure other end of
bailing wire to something pretty much
solid. Drive off.

Tobacco plug: Useful as an adhesive or filler.

Secures one thing to another. Also fills
holes to keep the load in the bed.
This will work exceptionally well to fix
your problem. Chew on the plug a bit, then
stick it on the starter. Like Tony says,
stick some on your sole, too. Now when
you mash the starter you'll hear something
happen. Start yer truck and drive off.


Be sure to read the "Caution" label on the tobacco plug wrapper. Once you get that smelly stuff on the sole of yer boot or shoe, don't go walkin' into the house, or we'll have to review what you'll need to clean with.

OK Glenn - I'm getting rid of that duct tape PRONTO ! Baleing wire and Tobacco plugs just seem to go better with a stovebolt anyway !

Tony - I tried the epoxy and nut on the bottom of my shoe; it works also, but I sure am walkin funny once I get out of the truck !

I had a similar problem on my '53. I bent a penny into
a U and hammered in over the bracket - gave just enough travel to make it work fine. Ran for years after that.

George

Good idea George - Can't find a fix much less than a penny these days.
That's just about the thickness it looks like it needs to make the contact too.

Here's how the previous owner of my winch truck fixed the problem. Yes it just lays there. Since the truck never leaves the yard I see no reason to change it.

I had the exact same problem....sometimes it would make connection, sometimes it wouldn't. I put on a new starter switch, and the problem kept on. I put a small radiator clamp around the peice that pushes up against the starter switch, and wedged a small piece of rubber under the radiator clamp to space it out. So, when I push the starter, the radiator clamp with the rubber underneath it is what actually touches the starter button on the starter. Works great! Before I did that, I took the cap off of a fuel injector cleaner bottle and it fit perfectly on the starter switch button....it also worked like that, but I really didn't want a yellow plastic cap on the switch! HAHA! Now, what would cause the problem, I'm not for sure, but, I got mine going again! Cranks everytime now. GOOD LUCK!

Cletis , I love your fix ! just like I see on all those clapped out desert rigs in Az.

Cletis, I don't think that previous owner fixed the starter. I think he used the starter for a vice !