The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Help me get my 1959 235 back in tip top shape

I have a 1959 ½ ton Fleetside with a stock 235 that has been great to me for the last 8 years. I am starting to hear lots of valve noise and possibly a little exhaust manifold leak. Planning to spend the day tomorrow adjusting the valves replacing the intake and exhaust manifold gaskets.

Is there a good online article on adjusting valves on a inline 6?

Should I torque the head at the same time or is that just asking for trouble?

Is there a trick to getting the manifold gaskets to seal well? Do I have to torque the manifold bolts in some order?

I am also planning to clean and gap the points and take a look at the plugs. Other than an oil change what else should I do to get the old 235 back in top shape.

Thanks for any help.

Dave

Biggest "trick" is ensuring they are as flat as possible.
The surface between exhaust and intake manifolds needs to also be flat, clean, and a good gasket.
With the two manifolds lightly bolted together with gasket, now temporally bolt them to the head with no gasket, again snug but not really tight.
Now torque the bolts holding the intake to the exhaust.
Remove manifold assembly from head.
Take assembly to machine shop to have them surfaced (flattened) together at the same time.
Reinstall assembly with new gasket.
Snug all bolts and torque from the inside working out.

Grigg

There are a number of different methods, most of them work well.

My preferred method is:
Drive several miles to throughly warm engine.
Remove valve cover.
Grab fan to turn engine over, sometimes pushing on slack side of belt to keep from slipping (engine not running)
While turning engine watch for a pair of valves (one cylinders worth) to close the exhaust and open the intake, this happens quickly with not much movement of the crank.
stop when the above exhaust valve fully closes and the intake just begins to open.
Now, in this case say that was the #1 cylinder that the valves just moved on, adjust both valves (to the warm settings by the book) on the #6 cylinder. This works because the #6 is very close to TDC and the valves are fully closed.
Repeat above until all have been adjusted.
The pairs of cylinders that can be adjusted are 1-6, 2-5, and 3-4, each when the matching cylinder just does the valve changeover the other cylinder's valves can be adjusted.

If working on any other even cylindered engine the same method can be used. Simply write the firing order, in this case 1-5-3-6-2-4, in two columns top to bottom then second half beside it, like
1-6
5-2
3-4
Now you have your pairs of cylinders to watch valves on one and adjust them on the other.

Grigg

Grigg's technique will work fine but, if you are as lazy as I am, here is a technique that requires only one rotation, lining up the ball on the flywheel after finding #1 TDC by lining up the ball on the flywheel.

Also, it might not make a difference but the Shop Manuals suggest assuring a fully-warmed engine by running the engine for 30 minutes after reaching maximum temperature.

And I think Tim's method works fine too.. I've used it before. However I too find I'm lazy and forgetful, and the simple one valve moves adjust the other method is easy to remember, no further instructions necessary, nothing to look up, works on just about any engine with an even number of cylinders. Even used it on a Marmon V16, and with that many valves to watch writing down the firing order and knowing where to look for the next two to move did help.

I'll add that my preferred method does take two revolutions of the crankshaft on a 4 cycle engine, but my current truck with a 2 cycle only takes one revolution.

Grigg

I do not have the funds for a machine shop. Is there a way to do something like this myself?

Can you tell me if this motor should have hydraulic lifters?

The number on the head is 3836848

Block 3738307

Thanks for the help

Dave

It looks like that block might have been used in cars and trucks (58-60). Either types of lifters could have been used in that block.

Post the code that is pressed into the block in the ledge just to the rear of where the distributor enters the block. This engine serial number might help determine if it was a car engine (hydraulic lifers) or a truck engine (mechanical lifters)).

Not really, all you can do is check to see if it is flat with a straight edge, or a flat surface and feeler gauges.
If it's not flat there is no use in putting it back on without flattening it. I suppose you could take a file to it, or a grinder, but you better have some time, a steady hand, and a good eye, and a good way to check it as you progress, or digress.
Having it done at a machine shop is the proper way to go about it, and I suggest you save up to do it right the first time if it does need to be flattened, which is likely.

Grigg

I cleaned and cleaned the ledge but the only numbers that could still be read are 1303 the rest are illegible.

A little more cleaning and it looks like F 3031

I would say some Black RTV Sealant, save for the small fact I can't remember if it stands up to gas or not ... be useless if it didn't.

I got a new exhaust put on my truck today and the exhaust shop does the manifold surfacing for $20.00 great deal. I am going to have them do it ASAP

Got the manifold shaved and it is all put back together. Like a whole new world not having any exhaust leaks. Now that it is so quiet you can really hear the valves so they are next in line.

Thanks for the help

Dave

Sounds like you're making progress!