The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Carburetor Question

I have a 1959 Chevy Apache 1/2 ton with a 235 cid. Right now it has a Rochester 1BBL #7013029 "B" Carb. One problem I am having is the fuel bowl and horn assembly are not flat. In places a .013 feeler gauge will fit between the fuel bowl and horn with no gasket. Is this a something that anyone has ever tried to fix and get the surfaces flat again?

I have another Rochester #7023017 1BBL Carb. that I could use from a 1963-67 Chevy 230 cid engine. Again the two surfaces are not flat on this carb. either. Is this a better carb or does this carb work without too much work?

I am trying to decide if I should try to fix and rebuild the original 1BBL carb or use the later model carb from a 230. Would it be better to forget about the Rochester and go with a Carter YF #2100S ? What is the best carb to use on a stock intake manifold. I want to keep the manual choke.

The reason why I am rebuilding the carb is to fix a hesitation problem. It also runs lean judging from looking at the spark plugs when they should be rich looking from the type of short trip driving I do. The engine is mechanically good and the ignition seems to be in good working order.

Thanks for any help

Your best bet is to forget about the Rochesters and go for the Carter. The model B Rochesters have a nasty habit of warping/cracking. Just be certain that you get a Chevrolet version as the Ford version has different jetting and will run rich. Look on the side of the float bowl, if it says "Made for Motorcraft by Carter", it's a ford unit. That carter will work fine, even the original choke/throttle clamp bracket will bolt right on.

Adam,

You have discovered one of the pitfalls of this carburetor. I can't give you a blow by blow fix for this problem, but here is what I have read.

I think the fuel bowl is alright..it is the air horn that warps. A dead flat fixture plate is made with a bolt pattern to match the air horn.

The air horn is screwed to this plate and the shebang is put in your wife's oven to bake at 350 degrees for a hour or so.

This heating process will normalize the casting and relieve any stresses in it...it will be flat again. Turn the oven off and leave the "carb pie" to cool on its own.

I might be mistaken, but I think CARBKING outlined a procedure something like this in one of his many posts.

Carburetors are a hot subject here...lots of war stories will be forthcoming I am sure!


Stuart

Thanks for the information.

I might try the "Carb Pie" method and see how that works. I am tempted to go find a Carter and forget about the Rochester though.

A temporary (and I do mean TEMPORARY)fix is to use a high quality silicon gasket compound to seal it. Make sure it is completely dry before driving again. That will stop the air leak and improve the driveability until you can fix it

Yes,Carbking gave a detailed description of this and the problem you are talking about. I have it as well and am in the hunt for a carter. Acording to carbking's long age post the carter 2100s size 3 with a manual choke will fit 1950 and newer engines