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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Feb 2009 Posts: 128 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Feb 2009 Posts: 128 | I have two questions. I searched for the answers before posting this and found mixed answers. Question one: when the engine is at TDC on number 1 cylinder, should I have the arrow right on top of the steel ball, or slightly after it on the downstroke? Question 2: could anyone who has a rochester 1 barrel RP carb tell me (either by turns or millimeters) where approximately both the idling mixture screw and the idling speed screw should be? The manual says the idle mix screw should be 1/2 to 1 turn out, but I still have gas collecting in the bottom of the header. And, the idle speed screw can only be set when the car is running, so I'm just shooting for ball park. I have a feeling my TDC is a little off and my carb adjustments are too. I'm trying to finally get this thing started tonight (235). Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!
1946 2 Ton Flatbed
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 12 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 12 | I usually set my rochester idle mix screw about 3/4 tunn out and the needle should be right on top of the steel ball.
Thomas | | | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 720 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 720 | I could be off here, but I was under the impression that the steel ball is your timing mark at idle, there should be an imprinted line about 5 degrees from it that indicates true TDC.
I always set the mix screw in the middle of the recommended settings, so 1/2 to 1 turn, 3/4 would be a good start. Get it started, let it warm up, set idle, check timing, then fiddle with your mix.
At least it's just the 1bbl, imagine tuning a set of quirky 2bbl webers. Ugh! 1956 GMC 370 dump " 'Tater "1970 VW Volksrod "the Black Bomber" 2007 Chevy Avalanche 2020 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk, 2005 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI I dig all cars, old and new, whether they were hammered out of American iron, German steel, or Japanese tin cans. Being unable to appreciate them all is missing out on a world of great things. But thats just MY opinion! :P
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,107 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,107 | it could be on the ball but then 5 degrees isnt a lot and you could have gone past that a little bit. at TDC it should be on the line between the U and C. here's how i set mine up for a first run and the same ever since. http://www.speedprint.com/deves50/doc/enginetiming.pdfsince using this process i have no more problems in this area. after you get your idle speed set then adjust the idle screw to the hightest vacuum reading you can get. re adjust idle then re adjust idle screw. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,746 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,746 | Set the needle on the ball, and turn the distributor housing so the points just open as the housing is turned counterclockwise. The rotor should point to the #1 plug wire, with the rest of the firing order clockwise, 5,3,6,2,4. It should fire right up. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2009 Posts: 128 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Feb 2009 Posts: 128 | I will give it a shot. Thanks guys. Still have the problem with the gas at the bottom of the manifold though. Any suggestions there? Should I choke the carb all the way and keep the throttle wide open? Should a slightly choke the carb and keep the throttle partially open or closed? It's a professionally rebuilt rochester 1 bbl...
Last edited by gatsby46; 04/30/2010 7:19 PM.
1946 2 Ton Flatbed
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