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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,089 Posts1,056,004 Members48,430 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Dec 2002 Posts: 3,440 Moderator - The Electrical Bay | | Moderator - The Electrical Bay Joined: Dec 2002 Posts: 3,440 | I'm working on a 66 droF Mustench and the voltage regulator smoked. The "Field" circuit (to/from the alternator) connector at the VR got hot and burned the circuitry inside the VR. I've done everything except strip the wiring harness down... any idea'rs?
Another quality post. Real Trucks Rattle HELP! The Paranoids are after me!
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,787 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,787 | Have you checked the resistance of the field windings in the alternator? It's possible a brush lead got shorted, or even the rotor itself might have developed a short. Resistance at the Field terminal of the alternator should be above 2 ohms, possibly more. Also, disconnect the field wire at ther alternator- - - -you should read a completely open circuit between the regulator connector and ground with the F wire disconnected at the alternator. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: May 2008 Posts: 40 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: May 2008 Posts: 40 | 66 droF Mustench, sorry if I knew what this ment I would be more able to help,,, I'm assuming you have an externaly regulated alternator. got a part number or something so I can give you an exact diagnosis. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2002 Posts: 3,440 Moderator - The Electrical Bay | | Moderator - The Electrical Bay Joined: Dec 2002 Posts: 3,440 | Capt T... sorry, drof is ford backwards... and its a stinky Mustang!
Another quality post. Real Trucks Rattle HELP! The Paranoids are after me!
| | | | | Joined: May 2008 Posts: 40 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: May 2008 Posts: 40 | | | | | | Joined: Dec 2002 Posts: 3,440 Moderator - The Electrical Bay | | Moderator - The Electrical Bay Joined: Dec 2002 Posts: 3,440 | Capt T, yes that would be the culprit!
Another quality post. Real Trucks Rattle HELP! The Paranoids are after me!
| | | | | Joined: May 2008 Posts: 40 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: May 2008 Posts: 40 | Assuming you have field connected to the right terminals, and there shouldn't be much current in the field wire i suspect you may have a short in your alternator, start by removing it and having it tested by a competent shop. do you have any sensitive electronics installed in your car such as electronic ignition or stereo equipment etc? With the car standing and regulator dissconected, use a short length of wire and touch from the Bat+ to the adjacent Fld terminal on the back of your alternator you should get a fat blue/purple spark as you break the connection, if you have an old amp gauge and connect 2 length of wire to it and use it to jump between the terminals it should read about 4 amps which is only about a needle width on a 60amp gauge. You may have a shorted out Rotor,,, but your regulator should have just blown rather then melt anything, trace the wires between the regulator and alternator carefully something sounds like its connected wrong or touching another live wire. | | |
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