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#635475 04/07/2010 12:47 AM
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 11
D
New Guy
New Guy
D Offline
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 11
Well I got back to work on the ol girl today. It's been a while, last time I worked on it it was running on one cylinder. Anyways I got the harmonic balancer off and the timing cover has a bunch of screws in it which I removed. There seems to be a sort of plate which goes on the bottem of the cover that holds it in. Any tricks to getting the cover off?

Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 6,100
3
3B Offline
'Bolter
'Bolter
3 Offline
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 6,100
Hy Dorf123, there are two bolts in the bottom of the cover that come from the oil pan side. That means that the oil pan must come off, but once off you can covert it by tapping the front main bearing cap to take the bolts from the outside towards the inside, you'll have to enlarge the threaded holes in the cover to allow the bolts to pass through, hope that helps.

Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 11
D
New Guy
New Guy
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 11
Thanks 3B, I'll give it a try!

Joined: May 2001
Posts: 7,438
Extreme Gabster
Extreme Gabster
Joined: May 2001
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"It's just a phase. He'll grow out of it." Mama, 1964

1956 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
1953 Chevy 6100 "The Yard dog"
1954 GMC Suburban Now with a new proud owner.
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D
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 9,671
What do you suppose the logic was behind runing the bolts in from the back rather than from the outside????
DG


Denny G
Sandwich, IL
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D
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
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Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 2,544
My best guess would be that they didn't want to drill and tap into the main bearing cap. It was cheaper to just have a hole and put the bolt in from the back.

Joined: Jan 2008
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C
'Bolter
'Bolter
C Offline
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 4,962
One has to remember these vehicles come from a day when labor was much cheaper than parts. I remember the flat rate of $2 an hour in the late 50's. Didn't cost much extra to drop the pan. And if the front seal was leaking, the back one was probably leaking worse.

Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 321
P
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
P Offline
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 321
digging up and old topic, but i wanted to know if this retrofitting can happen without taking the bearing cap off of the engine? if not i will just put it back together the way the factory did it.

Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,814
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,814
Yes, if you're pretty steady with a tap wrench. Just pack a rag around the main cap to catch any chips that get created by the tapping job, then hose it down good with brake cleaner or carb cleaner and blow dry. Reinstall the pan, and you're good to go. Don't forget to drill out the threads in the timing cover!
Jerry


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Joined: Jun 2005
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P
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
P Offline
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 321
thanks jerry. i was pretty sure it could be done and was going to just go ahead and do that, but i ended up having to pull the head because of a valve issue. probably take care of the timing cover issue tomorrow.


Moderated by  Phak1, Woogeroo 

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