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#627831 03/11/2010 3:45 AM
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 166
C
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Finally I went to pick up my tomato salad (Red GMC, different year parts) Mater Photos . Now that I have it in my possession, guess I'll try to ask what I'm immediately going to fix.
Its in fairly good condition, but doors, glass and cab might need a little work. First things first: the guy had a plastic gallon container in the hood with gas, and the pump sucked from it. No idea if the pump was bad or the tank was rusted. If it were a my 77 Honda Civic, I'll live with the gallon under the hood for a while. So took of the seats and support, both in excellent condition. Took out the tank, emptied it took a paint brush and gave good finish to the wood bed. Yes, it was varnish. My wife just threw me out of bed because I still smell like new furniture.
I know this has been asked 1000 times and I read the threads and I have an idea but just want a little help with a couple of choices:
a) split the tank, mechanical cleaning (wire brush), maybe sandblast. Weld it together, never leave it half its content so it won't rust as fast.
b) Same as above, but use rust inhibitor (any recommendation) or tank prep or good old anticorrosive paint (gasoline resistant)
c) Same as above, a company covers the interior with tin (not tin metal, actual Tin as in Sn, the element, reweld. This last one brings the question, does the tin will run when they weld it back again. They say they'll guarantee it, but I have my douts.

a and b will be done in my shop.

Thanks for the help and sorry for the bedtime story, It's just that I'm excited.

Last edited by Chinito Quan; 03/11/2010 3:46 AM.
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 7,440
Extreme Gabster
Extreme Gabster
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 7,440
I did my tank with Red-kote.

Read this post.


"It's just a phase. He'll grow out of it." Mama, 1964

1956 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
1953 Chevy 6100 "The Yard dog"
1954 GMC Suburban Now with a new proud owner.
Cletis #627943 03/11/2010 2:38 PM
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R
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Never heard of anyone actually taking a tank apart and welding it back together again. Usually they put some gravel, or old nuts and bolts in it and shake it around good to knock all the crud loose. This can have varying degrees of sucess.
I guess if you plan to open it up, the first thing is to make sure it's rinsed and re-rinsed so that there are NO fumes left in it. Otherwise, one little spark will send you into the next world!!


Rich
1947 Loadmaster
1947 Chev. Loadmaster
1959 Chev. Viking 40

Life is short--eat dessert first!
Rich'sToys #627952 03/11/2010 3:23 PM
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J
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Nice looking truck. So I am guessing there are no aftermarket reproduction tanks out there? Seems like a lot of work.

jomichael #628138 03/12/2010 3:12 AM
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http://www.classicchevroletparts.co...rakesRearAxleDriveshaftWheels.pdf#page=1

This the the easiest and safest way to fix the issue. I have bought some stuff from them with no regrets. When I get to the tank I will check prices most vendors carry them. I am not associated with any vendor, just had them in favorites.

Brad

brsdb3381 #628157 03/12/2010 4:05 AM
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I guess buying a new one is by far the best option, but shipping will kill me, I rather spend that money on other parts. The tanks is perfect on the outside, no one sign of rust, well the interior on the other hand, trust me, a chain will not work. I was asking about the options becaus a work on a steel structure fabrication facilitiy so its easy for me to crack open (I will not use oxyfuel or grinder, a Sawzall will do the trick with no sparks), clean it to a smooth finish, re-weld and now I have obtion D) hot dip galvanizing (I have a couple of suppliers that I think, can do the job). If D) is not an option, and Red-kote is not found down here, (it's not easy bringing liquid stuff via air delivery and ship might take forever, and probably be classified also as dangerous cargo, bla, bla, bla, been there, done that), does leaving it unprotected will last if tank is kept full or inconstant use? (I have the same issue with the 1st gen Honda I was talking about). Any other tank preps solutions, so I have a wider choice to look for here, other than Red Kote?

Thanks

Joined: May 2001
Posts: 7,440
Extreme Gabster
Extreme Gabster
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 7,440
Eastwood and POR-15 both have a sealer but both would have to be shipped. I found the Red-Kote locally at an auto parts store. Do you have a nearby auto supply you could check with?


"It's just a phase. He'll grow out of it." Mama, 1964

1956 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100
1953 Chevy 6100 "The Yard dog"
1954 GMC Suburban Now with a new proud owner.
Cletis #628343 03/12/2010 7:24 PM
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The galvanizing process consists of three steps. A caustic wash, an acid wash, zinc dip.

The first two process should clean out any "stuff" that does not belong in the tank. It may also clean it to where there are holes in it, dependion on the condition and the amount of rust.

Joined: Jan 2010
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C
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Posts: 166
I got to the shop today and the tank was cracked open, already cleaned ready for welding. Although it is in perfect outside condition, the inside was so rusted, that the steel was corroded, not to the point of holes, but left a lot of marks on the metal. I'm thinking sand-blast. Once we had a shipment of steel beams that were scubadiving in Mobile when the Katrina hit, no acid or basic wash helped, pure old scaler, grinder and sand blast. Anyway, talked to the galvanizers, $1.00 for each pound of weight of the tank (make that $30.00 for galvanizing) 15 days and I'm worry free. Hope it works. In the meantime I'll try to find Red Kote, just in case.


Moderated by  Gdads51 

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