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| | | Forums66 Topics128,032 Posts1,055,517 Members48,425 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: May 2008 Posts: 142 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2008 Posts: 142 | I am working on a 1946 Chevrolet utility, with a later 235 motor. In the back of the engine block, drivers side lower just above the oil pan, as in the earlier 216-235 cid engine, it has a coolant drain port. On my later 235 it has a ¼” NPT plug. Okay Stovebolters, should I replace the plug with a ¼” NPT petcock to assist in maintenance of the cooling system? Or should I continue using the plug? I am leaning toward petcock to keep the engine looking like a early 216-235, but in the later motor is it a improvement by using a plug for better drainage?
Your thoughts are appreciated.
Dale | | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,107 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,107 | i took all my plugs out and replaced them with a close nipple and a full port ball valve and a 90* ell to clear the block and pan. i do this for draining off the settled crap that accumilates over the years and doesnt get removed. those pet cocks from the factory worked well when the engine was new and clean. i like draining and cleaning the block via the ball valve and catch it in a bucket so i can see what came out. dont think that for one second after the water comes out clear its clean in there its not. ive been performing an on going experiment on my 40. i run just distilled water in the summer and on occasion i park the thing on a slight incline and a lean to the left side. perfect for draining and that is were all the stuff accumilates, thats whay they put the hole where they did. the end of the first summer i was just throwing away all the stuff that comes out. last summer i did the same but i saved as much as i could and i have enough stuff to fill up a large coffee can. none of this from last year is from the radiator because i had it recored. the cooling systems on these engines have a lot of area for stuff to collect and hide out. i dont use flush anymore, for how these things are its just a waste of money. unless you use some hi-tech boiler compounds its not coming out. plus the compounds will eat stuff and even the block which then you will have leaks, so do not use. for the winter i fill it up with A/F next month ill go back to water and continue the experiment. if you use a valve other than the petcock make sure you put a plug on the end after the valve. i like the brass ball valve and nipple look. it has the "im being maintained" look and not the factory "i dont know what that is there covered by 50-60 years of dirt". plus it functional.
Last edited by 51 ashton; 03/04/2010 1:11 PM. Reason: this place should incorporate spell check
| | | | | Joined: May 2008 Posts: 142 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2008 Posts: 142 | | | | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | I like the petcock for nostalgic purposes. If you use a little anti seize & don't overtighten it you can still remove it in case you want to flush it out, which shouldn't be nessesary with proper maintenance. They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,107 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,107 | yeah thats it and it saves you of having to use a seperate nipple. | | |
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