The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay Electrical Issues with 58gmc original wiring

I recently switched to an alternator(3wire) from generator.Also put in new gauges(oil,temp,volt).Ran alt wires :1 to batt directly(10awg).2nd wired to first.3rd to "hot"wire(12awg) going to starter post.-Keep having DEAD battery
Ran volt wire to "old"external regulator.It only needed a hot ONLY on when key is on&ground;power doesnt flow thru it.Cannt get pertronix electronic ign w/masterblaster2 coil to work. What's going on?Why would BATTERY drain?

Im sure somebody has an idea what is going on?I realize these are seperate problems

I setflywheel mark/ball.Not sure about that magnet ring on distriburtor shaft.kinda felt like it seated.followed petronics to the letter.truck still wont run.

dtwbcs; check your alt. wiring according to a reply to REAL_RAT_FINK who has a similar question. I don't know nuttin' aboout the Pertronix, maybe someone else will add something.

Wiring for alt on my truck : main wire(#10)&2nd wire tapped onto it; are run directly to battery.Other wire(#12 is going to ignition wire.Is that correct?I guess I could run to "old"regulator-

dtwbcs,

Lots of things going on so I'm not sure if this will help...I would make sure that those new gauges were switched through the ignition to only be ON when the key was ON. The wire going to DA#1 has to be switched too...it can't be ON all the time, this would discharge your battery.

Stuart

good advice.will look into them.gauges were tapped into existing dash lighting.volt gauge tapped battery tterminal at old regulator."the wire to the DA#1"not sure what terminal you are referring to?

Alt is wired directly to battery.Should I wire alt to the "regulator"terminal marked batt?would that prevent discharging the battery?

Anyone know about the pertronix setup?I went ahead&ordered a "flamethrower"coil to go with what I have.Not sure if that will solve the "NOT STARTING" problem.put old points/coil&it fired right up--What is the trick?

Checked that regulator "terminal"marked batt.It has constant feed from battery.If I run Alt wire to that terminal I believe that I would STILL have a battery discharge.running out of places to "check"that are suppose to be "hot"only when the key is ON.

ran the excitor wire to the fuel gauge for power.Alternator is working fine now.

I ran my exciter wire from the ignition switch,turn key on and excites it.

So do these last few posts mean that if you don't power the wire that goes to #1 on the 10SI alternator that the thing won't produce a charge?

Stuart

Yes.I learned that it needs a power source that is "controlled"by the key.Had battery draining before.Alt has a sensor inside?.

The spade terminal on the alternator closest to the BAT output stud MUST turn off with the ignition or you will have a 2-3amp drain. This terminal is designed to be connected thru and idiot light to the ignition or some other switched power source. Some [very few} 10si will cut in from residual magnetism alone especialy with increased RPM but thats not how there intended to operate. 1wire alternators use a self energising regulator and don't require an exciter wire.

works fine now.Thanks eveyone for all of the advice-