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BUSY BOLTERS Are you one? The Shop Area
continues to pull in the most views on the Stovebolt. In August alone there were over 22,000 views in those 13 forums.
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| | Forums66 Topics126,776 Posts1,039,271 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 150 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 150 | I'm trying to disconnect the drive shaft from my 1954 3100 with SM 420 transmission. I got the bell collar slid back all the way. I removed the universal caps, so it's free from the transmission. I'm expecting the drive shaft yoke to slide back about 3/4" to clear the rear bearing retainer housing so I raise or lower the torque tube out of the way. I can't seem to move the yoke all. I've been prying really hard to slip it back. Don't think it's moved. What would be my next step?
Thanks | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 2,393 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 2,393 | Just to make sure I'm reading you right, you loosened the the slip joint retaining nut(the large ring nut around the drive shaft tube) along with unbolting(4 bolts) the ring collar then slid them together back first? With those loose and the universal joint caps removed, I don't see why the universal joint won't separate.
Drew
| | | | Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 150 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 150 | Ahhhhh, I did not loosened the slip joint retaining nut. I figured if the bell slid back exposing the univeral joint, I would be all set. Yes, the 4 bolts are removed from the ring collar and the 4 bolts attaching the universal joint caps are removed, the bell is slid back to where the dia. of the torque tube gets bigger. The joint is separated from the transmission stub, I can turn the yoke (on the torque tube) and watch one wheel turn, YET the stub connected to the transmission doesn't turn. I have it separated there. I'm expecting the yoke to slide back into the torque tube as the bell did.
NOTE: The frustrating part is, I did this job on my 1948 chevy car nearly fifty years ago when I was 13, no internet, no google, no books, no diagrams, no one to talk to. What I recall, two wrenches and a jack for the torque tube.
Thanks | | | | Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 888 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 888 | I recently encountered the same problem. The internal splines on the yoke had twisted slightly (due to torque I guess)and wouldn't allow the yoke to slide back on the driveshaft. I removed the bolts from the 2 front rear spring shackles AFTER I made sure everything was safely supported w/jackstands. That allowed the rear axle to move backwards enough on the rear shackles to drop the torque tube and remove the yoke. Most likely you'll need another yoke. This process with take time and can be dangerous so proceed carefully and a 2nd set of eyes won't hurt either. You could also try raising the rear and supporting the frame allowing the rear axle to sag down. This may give you the little bit of room needed to pry the joint apart at the universal. Something I didn't consider at the time but it may work. Good luck.
Ed
| | | | Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 150 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 150 | Thank you for the reply, You clearly understand my situation and thanks for the pointers for me to proceed. I'll share progress.
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