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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,075 Posts1,056,003 Members48,433 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 45 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 45 | I recently acquired a 62 k-20 with the closed knuckle Dana front axle. In theory, you are supposed to fill up the knuckles with gear oil, which lubes the universal joints, the wheel bearings and the knuckle bearings. Shortly after I bought the truck, I filled the joints with oil, and drove it a short distance to get it home. Later, when I inspected the front end, I determined it needed a total rebuild – the knuckle bearings were gone. When I took it apart there was some oil left in the knuckles, but not much, and the wheel bearings were somewhat dry.
I read as much as I could about how to lube the joints, and got a lot of opinions. It is clear to me that these knuckles will have a hard time keeping oil in them, especially as they approach 50 years old. So, when I put everything back together, I packed the wheel bearings with high quality wheel bearing grease, the way you would with traditional spindles. I also packed the knuckle bearings the same way – they are small caged roller bearings similar to wheel bearings. I did not do it yet, but I intend to replace the axle u-joints with traditional closed seal joints with grease fittings, like those used in open knuckles, and then leave the knuckles dry.
My thinking is that, based on the use of the truck, if I plan on re-packing the wheel bearings every 10,000 miles, the interval will be 5-10 years. Four wheel drive will be used 10% of the time, if that, so the u-joints should be fine. And, I live without the leaks.
Does anyone have any thoughts or see any drawbacks to this? I would be interested to hear them.
Thanks
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 1,096 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 1,096 | My Toyota Landcruiser had specified in the handbook , Europa LMOS2, as front hub lube.
It was a soft black grease heavy in Molybdium. Took a 1/2 lb tin in each side. I think the moly was the essential element. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,792 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,792 | Moly-based grease is good stuff, and it penetrates the pores of the metal to leave a slightly slippery surface film even after the grease goes away. We used to pack rear hub bearings on big rigs with wheel bearing grease, even when they were supposed to be lubed from the middle with gear oil. It provided a failsafe backup in case of a leak, and prevented some on the road bearing failures. Jerry
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