The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Cork vs. Rubber

I know some of you guys have had leaky valve covers and the side pushrod covers at least once in your life. My question, cork vs. rubber gaskets? Also should I use a thin coat of RTV? Another question is there a torque sequence on the valve cover, my shop manual only gives the specified torque in inch pounds.

i'm not inclined to use rubber. cork seems to work well on my amc motor. i don't use rtv on the gasket. doesn't seem to leak, from the gasket, anyway.

i have no idea on any sequence for tightening the bolts.

Some guy's (mechanics) hate what I am about to say. But here go's.
The cork gasket works well on engines without machined sealing surfaces. I always use a small amount of 3M weatherstrip adhesive (gorilla snot) on one side of the gasket to glue it to the part to install, not the engine side. I install the bolts in the holes to keep the gasket in alignment untill the glue drys. Here is the important thing, clean both surfaces completly dry of oil before you install the gasket. You see oil is viscus. If you leave oil on the surface you are trying to seal, it will never seal. NEVER!!! The oil will follow the trail just like electricity follows a wire.
Now if your engine has a smooth machined surface, dry rubber gaskets or ("or" not "and") silicone is the best sealant. But still if you leave any residue of oil on the surface it will leak.
Another tip is on valve covers, oil pans, and tappett covers. Make sure the hole you put the bolt through hasn't been damaged by the bolt. That is to say make sure the surface you wish to seal is flat. Use a small hammer ans a drift to flatten out the holes in the part you are goint to install.
Oh and don't use red silicone. All the crappy work I have ever seen had red silicone.

Start in the middle and work you way out. Don't go buy an inch pound torque wrench. Just tighten the bolts in the same order center to end in three stages, with the fingers on the sockett first round, and use a 1/4" wrachett and snug them second round, and just till the cork gasket begins to fatten on the third round.
Or go buy a good inch pound ratchett for about $150.00. I have been a mechanic for about 37 years, the only things I have ever torqued are heads,and bearings. To this day I have never had a torque related come back.

Thanks I'll give it try. I scored a nice straight stock valve cover, had to since my old one is warped. I know alot of guys say don't get the chrome after market ones. Anyones thoghts on this?

The chrome ones are prone to leak. More so on the ones you buy now. If you can find a set of 30 year old chrome valve covers that might be better. But a touch of chrome sure looks cool on an engine. So maybe the leak is worth the trade.