The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts Need info on 1936 T-16 GMC track width/ weight

Hi fellow Bolters, I getting ready to drag home my 36 and I was wondering if anyone knew off the top, what a T16 dump truck might weigh. I don't know what the wheelbase is, but the center of the rearaxle looks to be 40" from the back of the cab by eyeball. Also, I would like to know how far my trailer fenders need to be apart. I"m pretty sure it's fairly narrow up front.
Thanks, KC

Trying to post pictures. http://s890.photobucket.com/albums/ac102/chiefbobber

http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/ac102/chiefbobber/th_36001a.jpg
http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/ac102/chiefbobber/th_36001.jpg

Thats a good looking truck you got there...

My 36 (chevy) was about 60" up front and about 80" out back. But you can narrow up the rear by dropping the outside rears off. I brought mine home on a dual axle trailer loaded it with the front forward that way the rear axle didnt need to get past the fenders.. cause it wouldnt have made it...

as far as the weight goes.. id be guessing.. especially with the dump bed on it...

Thanks for the info. do you have any pic of yours?

At the end of these pictures is my 37 T16 loaded on a goose neck flatbed. The rear duals didn't quite make it to the tires.

I agree with CORPO, take the outside duals off.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/imakatzenjammer/sets/72157623314012274/

Is your trailer a flatbed with only fenders or is it a trailer with side frames. I have a flatbed that tilts. I haul 2 tons all the time. The front wheels go between the fenders. Running the back wheels up to almost at the fenders gives me just about the correct tongue weight. If you have a fame above the deck, you will have to take off the outside dual. Whatever trailer you use, make sure it has good brakes. Operating a trailer over 4000 without brakes is not only illegal in most states, it is downright dangerous.

My '36 1.5 ton fit nicely on a standard car hauler although I didn't try to get the duals past the fenders. All of the weight is in the front anyways so you only need to slightly overcenter over the axles.

PS you can see it on the trailer in my signature link to the gallery.

Thanks for all the information. After much thought I've decided to Hire up a good friend with a hauler. My trailer was homemade by myself 20 years ago and shes seen some hard use. My 36 is about 70 miles away and I think it might just be too much for it in its present condition. If it wasn't a dump I might have given it a shot. Also I was going to tow it home with the donor P-30, but the P-30 is sans a hitch and January weather without a garage isn't conducive to putting one on it. Once again Thanks for the info.

Heres mine loaded up on the trailer
http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo291/mack1416/DSC02452.jpg

Yeah Corpo, I checked out that picture and the rest before I bought mine. I think it's pretty amazing what you've done with the old girl. Is it moving on it's own now?

the short answer is no...

unfortunately due to limited space the frame has been in storage for the winter since October.. once it comes back this spring.. i need to finish boxing the frame and figuring out my shock mounts and the engine and trans mounts...

this winter i have just been tinkering with replacing the wood in the cab.. i still have tons of patching to do but i will get that all sorted out soon i hope.. i just put some temporary bracing in the cab cause im going to pull the floor out and swap it with the other floor i have that is in much better shape.. i just cant wait till the doors are hung again...

did the 36 gmc have the wood in the cowl?

Well at the moment I'd have to say yes, there is wood in the cowl as the door posts were wood. After I get it home I'll have a better idea. Doesn't your 37 have all steel supports? If so couldn't you swap that into your 36? I'm planning on using all steel in mine as it will see daily use as a work truck. After it's finished I plan on hauling one of my ex's cars out to New Mexico with it. Unfortunately, I like you have limited inside work space. In fact the 36 will not even fit inside my shop.

Well I was told when I picked up my extra cab shell that it was a 37... But it had wood in it as well... Now this was before I knew that the 37-38 cabs didn't have wood.. otherwise I would have kept looking till I found one without wood...So this leads me to believe that my second cab is also a 36... But the windshield opening is taller than my other cab which is how the 37's were... So I don't know for sure what I have... But it's what I have so I'm going to make it work... The wood is a pain... But i'll get it sorted out... I know some guys put wood back in but in the event of an accident I don't want splintering wood shapnel in the cab...

Have u thought about how u are going to do your structure?

Here it is in a nutshell. I'm going to use the stock frame, Slide the cab back or redesign the firewall/ floor boards (Cummins is LONG) P-30 Axles, brakes, driveshaft, PTO, air compressor, Wheels&tires, rear mount crane, and 12v to 110v inverter. Then I'm going to kill my old 94 dodge truck and grab the Cummins and 5 spd. I plan on building several interchangeable bodies. I.E. a box (maybe the rear 3/4 of the P-30), a dump (The original with upgraded hydraulics,Ramp to haul light cars, and maybe a utility body (modern with the front rounded and the rear rounded down similar to the back of a fire truck body). This will allow me to sell off(Chevy) or crush (Dodge, furd) a number of trucks around here.

In 1936, Chevrolet made both a high cab and a low cab which was part of the transition to the newer style cabs. This was also done just to mess with parts suppliers and restoration folks.

Here's the weird thing. If you look at Carpo's two cabs(which he thought were 36 and 37) they both look like low cab 36s, both cabs have wood door and cowl supports, but one of them has a windshield that is tall like a 37 (not tall and squared off on the top like a High cab 36). So here's the question did the early 37 cabs have wood like a low cab 36 and the taller windshield of the 37?

man that sounds cool, how are you planing to set up the different bodies so that you can easily change them?

Haven't got to that yet but many possibilties come to mind. Pockets on the frame with stakes on the body pinned with quick pins, Have a winch mounted between the rails just behind the cab pull the bodies on with the winch Pin them. In the case of the ramp body put a pulley system to use the same winch to pull the cars up the ramp. I'll give it a lot more thought later after the old girl rolls on the P-30 axles. Got a price to move the old girl home today. I figure it's money well spent. I'm heading down into MA Friday morning to drive the donor step van home. Soon it will all be here. Maybe I can get a jump on spring.

I subscribe to a couple of UK classic truck magazines. Several articles have mentioned trucks having multipurpose. During the day they would make rounds as a flat bed and at night as a box or livestock van. I suspect they would fasten the body on with squared Ubolts then just pull it into the yard undo the bolts jack it up and prop it up and drive out from under it then back under the other body lower it fasten the ubolts and away you go. Since companys like that would have a staffed shop and would often build their own bodies it would only be a few minutes work to do the change.

Darn and just when I thought I invented the wheel.........
My ride to pick up the P-30 donor, got pushed back today, so we took a ride out to clean all the parts out of the T-16. Saw a nice 46 COE Tanker on the way. grabbed a few pictures and measurements. Looks to be 132 inch wheel base. I found the Tag, Model T-16 LA, Chassis no 11X75, Straight rating 7000 all in all a good day.


http://s890.photobucket.com/albums/ac102/chiefbobber