The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Interiors '41 window channel...cloth or rubber lined best?

I need to replace the window channels in my '41 1/2 ton. About all that is left is the metal channel itself. I am seeing both cloth (original?) and rubber lined channels available. Anybody care to voice which they think is best and why?

Also, I see "channel clips" listed but don't have a clue how those work. My old channels are just kind of hanging in there, about to fall out with a good tug.

I have been successful in getting the regulators to work smoothly with a good soaking of wd40.

Anyway, any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

TW,
I used weatherstripping from J Carters. It went in rather easy. Was a little hard to cut square. It was tight in corners so I clamped the window in place for a few days so it kinda held the shape. Then I used a 3M contact cement to hold. I took a lot of pictures starting here. Have fun and good luck
Dan

Hey Dan,
I'm about to install the same weatherstripping from Carter's and I have a few questions. I see in your photo album the roll of thin black rubber. Is this is what goes between the glass and the metal frame? Do you use either of the 3M sprays to hold it in place, or is it tacky enough and the fit tight enough that its not needed?

Which of the two sprays did you use to put the silver waffle insulation inside the door and which one did you use to make the window felt stick in the upper door frame? I had thought the goopy stuff that comes out of a toothpaste type tube would be better for that. Opinion?

Pasadena Dan,
The black thin rubber is called glass setting tape. It comes in various thicknesses and widths. I purchased at the glass shop when I bought the glass. The thickness holds it in place and needs no adhesive. Push the glass in place put your bottom track on then cut the excess. It helps if the setting tape is soft so leave in the sun or soak in warm water. I used the 3M high temp on the Reflectex on the roof and the regular 3M on the sides. In the window channel I used contact cement in the upper window metal, Put on a couple coats allowing each one to dry on both pieces. It really sticks once they touch and is not forgiving. I clamped the window in place for a day or so. It seems to work and looks OK. If I could get a little time to work on I'd be happy. Hope this helps. Have fun and good luck
Dan

Helps a lot, thanks.

I was talking to another 'Bolter that has a LOT of experience with these trucks. He said that every one of these trucks he's ever taken apart that was still factory original, the window channel does NOT go all the way up and over the door. It stops at approximately the height where the channel begins to curve over the top of the glass. If you look at the diagrams in the factory service manuals it shows it this way.

My first question was probably the same as what you're thinking - wouldn't this allow for a lot of road noise? Probably yes but with an opening windshield and cowl vent I doubt this adds too much to the noise they put out.

Since I wrote the above post, I have taken apart my '46 passenger door and sure enough, the window channel only extends up to the point where it would begin to curve over the rounded part of the glass. It is held in place with a tiny counter sunk, slotted screw on the straight or rear part of the door. On the curved or front part of the door, there are two of these screws. At the bottom, the channels are held in place by a flap of metal you bend to hold the channel.

The interesting part is that above the window channel felt it had a rubber weather stripping in it. It was decrepit after all this time so I don't know if it started out contoured to fit the rounded edge of the glass or if the constant pressure of the glass shaped it over the years.

Dan in Pasadena is correct on all counts. As for the setting tape Chev 4t6 is correct but I still use a sealant due to the fact that water can still migrate between the tape and the frame which is a great set up for rust to start in the lower corners.

I treat all my channels with POR15 and seal the glass with setting tape and silicone sealant.