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| | | | Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 2 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 2 | I am doing a 52 3100, I would like to keep the straight axle but would like to change to a rack and pinion steering setup.
Is that possible? can they be married without to much headache? | | | | | Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 | Welcome to the Stovebolt. Please don't let my negative response to your first post discourage you, I assume people don't ask questions unless they want honest answers.
Its possible and there is even a kit out there to do it.
I think its a really bad idea.
1) You are adding unsprung weight to the front axle which will not improve ride or handling.
2) Depending on mounting and arms you may be creating a dangerous bounce steer situation.
3) If you mount the rack on the axle you have to create a slip joint between the column and the pinion that will be critical to a working steering system.
If you still want to try it, I would strongly encourage you to find someone who has done it and ask to drive their truck. Lots of people on the Internet will talk about how great something is, but when pressed for details its not unusual to learn the project isn't finished and they don't really know how well it works.
Since that kit hasn't been out a long time I don't know if there are any finished trucks using it. Personally I'd insist on driving one before choosing the kit. But short of being impressed in a road test I remain very skeptical that it can be done in a way that solves all the problems.
I'm currently working on an IFS swap. The most commonly referenced web pages on the swap I'm doing were written by a guy who ran into bump steer problems and decided to go back to a straight axle.
It wasn't until I found another guy who has been driving his truck on cross country trips for ten years that I became confident the swap I now am doing could be done successfully. Lots of people have started the swap, not many have it on the road.
You really don't care how nice the parts work, or how easy they are to install, if you can't enjoy driving it too.
1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more...
It's true. I really don't do anything but browse the Internet looking for trouble... | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 |
Last edited by Grigg; 01/07/2010 12:28 AM.
| | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | I'm with Steve and Grigg, not a good idea.
Bill Burmeister
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 164 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 164 | I guess I am one of the few who had that setup on the road. The previous owner had installed a rack and pinion on my '53 panel and it did not work well. It was actually scary to drive on bumps and bounces it steered itself. I suggest going a different route.
Last edited by garandboy; 01/07/2010 4:40 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2009 Posts: 56 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2009 Posts: 56 | I'm a Heavy Duty Mechanic by trade and I have worked on rack and pinion set ups on the larger trucks and I can tell you the first thing to fail is always the slip joint on the steering. They are extremely high maintance and require constant inspections. The sever bump steer you get from the unit when you hit a pot hole will break your thumbs when the steering wheel snaps out of your hands.
I'm with Grigg and everyone else on this one if it is a show truck and not something you plan to drive then fine but if you plan to drive it then I wouldn't suggest it not only for your own safety but the safety of other motorists on the road if it fails while your driving.
The only reason the class 4 and higher trucks went to the rack and pinion was in a effort to remove the slave steering box and remove around 400# of weight off the front end. | | |
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