The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Removing old plug on my Fenton's

I have not been able to remove the pipe plug on my rear header since I got my new intake and heat kit. The front plug come out no problem, but the kit is designed for the rear one to be used.

I have used different penetrants on it and used all kinds of wrenches. It just gets worse. Aside from drilling it out, does anyone have any suggestions on how to get this plug out? Since winter has come i ahev decided to attack this issue again, since it is more noticable in the colder weather. Thanks for the advice!

Heat is your friend. Get the bushing around the plug as hot as you can with a propane torch, or get it cherry-red with an acetyline rig, and turn the plug out. If a candle or a piece of parrafin sealing wax is applied to the thread area when it's moderately hot- - - -the wax will follow the threads and help lube it, but watch out for a flash fire if you do that.
Jerry

Thanks Hotrod, I figured heat was gonna be needed. Looks like I might head over to the brothers to play with the new torch of his!

If you get it to move with heat and it feels like its pulling threads or becomes stuck use some valve grinding compound and light oil and work it back in forth. This will get in between the threads and cut the crud to remove the bolt or nut. be sure it is cool though. This trick works great on SS bolts and nuts when they start to gall to.
62Blue
Don

Alright, I've heated it up to red hot and all I'm doing is tearing up the plug. I don't think the heat method will work further.

Cutting, drilling and grinding is my last option I think. What would be the best coarse of action you guys think? These headers are installed in the truck so the angle is a bit precarious. Thanks for the help so far Gentlemen!

The most effective method is going to be to remove the header, and jig it up in a drill press. Otherwise, you run a risk of drilling the first hole off-center, and damaging the bushing as you enlarge the hole. It's vitally important that the original drilled hole is exactly on center, then step-drill it larger about 1/8" at a time. When you finally get to the minor diameter of the thread, carefully use a tap to cut the remaining threads out.
Jerry

I'm about to try the same thing on my Fentons. I tried briefly to remove the rear plug and twisted the end of the allen wrench. I was thinking if it doesn't come out why not leave it in and drill and pipe tap another hole in the header; all we're looking for is a way to plumb some heat to the intake right?

Neswes- Yah pretty much! I was thinking along the same lines, the only thing that comes to mind is the way it would look. If that doesn't concern you then go for it.

come to think of it didn't Mr. gasket or somebody used to offer a clamp on heat riser for your headers that was used to feed the auto choke on a carb. Maybe you could adapt something like that.

Hello ApacheFiend. We met at BSA Camp Cherokee a year or so ago.

I bought my original Fentons from the ball park swap meet. That plug was in there for decades. When my plug finally came out it took all the threads with it!!!

I had to re-thread the hole which is risky in cast iron. Take it slow and lots of oil. Then I added a brass bushing to get the size back down where I needed it. I made my own intake plate and piped it using brake tubing. I am not finished and on the road yet so I cannot say if my home built system will work properly.

Richard
Midlothian T512

Hey Richard! I remember you! I was out there at Camp this past week for Winter Camp. Thanks for the info, I'm gonna set aside a day to do this and hopefully it will all work out. Thanks again!

I'm thinking of trying to adapt something I saw in the dorman catalog #55111 carb heat choke kit. It's only about $10 bucks. Just clamps to the header and then just drill and tap into my bottom manifold plate. I have an offy dual 1 Barrel manifold.

Langdon"s Stovebolt sells a plate that attached to the intake maifold and the heater hose flows thru it, will heat the intake but wouldn't do much when it's cold, but I guess it runs better all the time if the intake is heated. It's $35, and you would need to reroute the hose from the thermastat housing

Got'em out! I taped them with a regular hammer rythmicly for a minute or so, squirted some more PB Blaster on them, then used my vise-grips and got the darn thing out. My new vise-grips have an Allen wrench socket on the back so I could tighten it even more and that gave me the necessary grip to finally turn the thing. That plug sure was mutilated. Thanks for all the help/suggestions!