The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Tons 'o Fun Single wheel 8 lug axle swap to get Disc Brakes

A CNC mill would be better suited to making caliper brackets.
Hubs would be best done on a lathe, then on the mill you'd do the bolt pattern and a couple notches in the bores to more easily punch the bearings out for replacement.

Still, see what kind of projects he's looking for.

Grigg

Anyone else come across this post at oldgmctrucks forum for 1 ton disk brake swap?
Thoughts and ideas on what this guy did?


http://oldgmctrucks.infopop.cc/eve/...&m=616101765&s=272004236&p=1

I watched him post it way back when. Its been referenced here by me and others on several occasions, so yes a number here have seen it before. I believe you have to join to see it. If you read it carefully you'll see I'm part of the dialog.

This time I'didn't reread it in detail. A member here has done a similar swap and better documented the pieces he used.

The only real problem with Leroy's setup is that its for dual wheel type hubs. This thread was started as an effort to bring together single-wheel information because so few appear to have done it.

If you truck has dual wheels that thread and John Henry's (not his alias) here are good reading. If you've got a single wheel truck there does not seem to be a lot of information on how to do it.

Grigg is working on it for his project. I decided to go IFS on mine.

Steve's got your answer covered.
The problem is there is no info on a single wheel 8 lug disc brake conversion if anyone has even done it.

I've got a plan (as you can see above) but I'm still not happy having to use the stock and expensive bearings. If I don't come up with any more ideas I'll just have to use them.

It'll be a while before I get back to this project, plenty of other stuff to do for the next several months or year...

Grigg

Life happens.

I swept the walkways in my shop today knowing I won't be working in there again until July or August. I moved my extra set of dually hubs in the process and kicked a rotor out of the way.

I found the following tapered roller bearings in timken catalog and for sale on line at numerous places. they come close to replacing stock ball bearing.Might need alittle sanding on spindle.

outer repalcement
timken 1975 and 1922 parts

inner repalcement
timken 3387 and 3339.

Look those up and tell me if you see any real problems using these. I would appreciate any feedback.

one website cost per side is around 65 dollars.

Outer set 1975/1922
Has 0.875" ID, 2.25" OD, and is 0.781" thick

Inner set 3387/3339
Has 1.5" ID, 3.15" OD, and is 1.156" thick

Here's the original info for comparrison

To use the outer set you'd need a late spindle turned down about 0.030" (Which is more than you can sand) The older one is already to small.
OD looks good
Thickness is about 0.040" thinner which should still be fine.

To use the inner set the ID and OD look good.
Thickness is about 0.080" thinner which may still be fine.
Only issue is the seal, hopefully there is a way to use one, and if not then this bearing is not much help.

Thanks for the info!
These look like some good possibilities and could jump start a reasonably simple 3/4 and 1 ton single wheel disc brake swap with original axle.

Grigg

I assume the dually and single axles use the same bearing for the AD series truck. Anyone know off hand?

To revive this thread,
Anyone investigated these possible replacement bearings for original hubs and spindles?

I'd like to start on this disc brake swap again before to long.

Grigg

Grigg,
Stumbled across a web site advertising roller bearings for a 3/4 and 1 ton. The web site was Classic Truck Parts and they showed P/N BR2706-R for the inner 1953 to 1959 and BR2716-R for the outer 1953 to 1959 as well as BR2715-R for the outer 1947 to 1952. I also found BR2715-R on another web site, American Classic Truck Parts Inc, they should BR2704-R for the inner. Do you know anything about these and will they work?

Dave

Thanks for the numbers, I'll look into it!

On the Classic Truck Parts site looks like
BR2706-R inner set and BR2716-R outer set are what I'd need.
Still expensive at about $340 for all 4 bearings, but I haven't looked anywhere else yet.
They are tapered roller, which is an improvement and I wasn't sure was even available.

Can't seem to find them listed anywhere else by those numbers, so either they are custom made for the truck parts place, or they go by another number in the real world??

Grigg

Grigg,
Let me know what you find.

I was able to zoom in on the one picture and it looked as if the number on it was MBS 909025R. Searched it and this is what I found.
Check out this:
http://www.mbs-m.co.jp/page026.html



Dave

Hello,
I'm new to the forum, I've got a 1947 3/4 ton. I am debating what to do with the front suspension, I am on a tight budget so I want to keep it stock, if stock is worth keeping. The front wheel bearings are about 1/3 the cost of an axle or clip swap, so if I get this figured out, i'll stick with the original axle. Here's what I've come up with: The original factory documents: (http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/chevyresto/4877.htm

List the part number as 909026 and 909025.

The Timken interchange book lists B25 and B26 as compatible. See Page 214, http://www.timken.com/en-us/products/Documents/BearingInterchangeGuide7536.pdf

Lastly, by accessing http://www.showmetheparts.com/timken/#
and choosing "part search", entering B25 yields a buyers guide that indicates it fits "Chevrolet Truck 52-46." In the 'attributes' section it lists the sizes which off all the dimensions that seem to match the factory guide.

Based on all this, I believe the 3/4 ton wheel bearing part numbers are B25 and B26. As for the seals, I don't know where to get started.

Albeit I'm new here, I am a bit lost on this thread. Is it about hub bearings or disc brakes? Front or Rear? 3600 or 3800 series? If it is for the rear I have found that the 3600 rear axle is a 14 bolt used up though the mid '70's and think these kits would work for the rear:
14 Bolt Disc Brakes Conversion
14 Bolt Disc Brakes Conversion #2

It's about finding a good way to run disc brakes on the front of an Advance Design 1 ton (3800).
Which lead to finding a good and affordable source of front wheel bearings if I were to keep the original axle, spindles, and hubs.

So about both disc brakes and front wheel bearings.
Nothing to do with the rear.

Much of the info will work for 3/4 tons,too but that's not my focus.

Grigg

So did you come up with a "suit cased" solution for the front conversion to disc brakes? Do you have any contacts that could make the brackets to hold the calipers? Griggs photos look great, but do you have a parts list?

Sorry, I have nothing more at this time.
I'll make my own brackets and any other parts when I get back to it.
This project is about 3rd on the list, and a few years out I'm sure. Here we are a year after I started figuring already...

Grigg

Hey grigg, it sounds like you've done a lot of good work. The approach to use off the shelf parts is commendable. But as the thread progresses it moves to mods to existing parts and then into custom made hubs, etc.

I've worked with bearing applications in my job. Perhaps you should consider having custom bearings made. While it sounds expensive, it may not be as or much more expenive than the approaches being discussed. I have a few contats for custom bearings. Send me a PM if you're interested.

New ideas!!
Well actually old ones and some small new ones that might make the old ones work.

Go back to the very very beginning of this thread, I was thinking to adapt a 2wd hub/rotor onto a newer Chevy P-30 I-beam axle and spindles, that would then need to be narrowed.... lots of work
It also hinged on the combined design hub/rotor which I thought (and still think) was a lousy idea to not have a separately replaceable rotor. If I can accept that they are OK this might all work out..

So that first post instead of the rotor I listed look at this rotor NAPA part # NB 4885580 it is the proper 1.5" thickness to work with the P-30 caliper.

Now, the new idea that might make this work simpler and with a bare minimum amount of machine work (and no welding) is a different I-beam axle.
The I-beam from an AD 2 ton and some 1/16" larger king pin bushings might adapt nicely to the P-30 spindles, steering arms, and caliper bracket. And the 2 ton axle bolts to the 1 ton springs without any problems or issue at all, it's also a pretty narrow axle already.

So still back to the problem of the 2wd rotor/hub doesn't fit without either machining about 1/16" off the inner bearing journal on the spindle. Or enlarging the bore in the hub to take a 0.109" larger bearing cone. (I think turning the spindles is going to be the better choice)

This is by no means a final plan or even proven, some questions are final track with, what to do about a grease seal, and do the parts actually fit like I imagine they will????

This would involve parts from 3 different trucks and none of the original 1 ton stuff.

We'll see how it goes.
Grigg

Measuring and figuring and seeing if this will work.
(WMS stands for Wheel Mounting surface)

Just for info the stock 1 ton FRONT axle measures approximately 58.25" from WMS to WMS.

The stock REAR axle from my 52 1 ton has a 62.625" measurement.
Check here for a great rear axle swap idea: https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=599879#Post599879

Stock 2 ton I-beam is approximately 53.5" from center of king pin to center of king pin.

So what WMS width will a 2 ton axle, P-30 spindles, and 90's 2wd rotor/hubs give you? Is it anywhere close to 58.25", or even 62.625"??

Grigg

Made some careful measurements. And assuming the single wheel hub/rotor is in fact 3" from inside of rotor to WMS. (will check one out at NAPA to be sure)

P30 8 lug axle WMS width is 81.625"
Dual rotor inside surface out to WMS is 7.25"
Old 2 ton axle beam is about 9" narrower than a P30 beam.

My 19.5" wheels have 1.6875" inset.
Wheels with tires add 4" total to overall width of axle.

Top center of fender width is 72.125"
Narrowest width inside the lip of fender is 68" both front and rear near the bottom.
Width outside rear edge of fender opening is 70.5"

I guess 68" over all counting tires could work, might even get away with 70"

If it won't just work, then with wheels with another inch or so of inset might work.
Note that this axle will end up being nearly wider than the original,

So, sounds like we might have a viable solution for 1 ton single wheel disc brakes and an axle rated for 4,500 to 5,000 lb to boot.

Grigg

This idea of using all sorts of different axle parts to assemble a disc brake I-beam axle has turned out to be quite different than the original ideas of this thread to adapt disc brakes to the existing axle.

If original axle and fabricated disc brake kit and or replacement wheel bearings is your goal stick with this existing thread.
I think I'm moving on though, I like the new ideas and direction better.

I felt it better to branch off and start a new thread for the continuation of the assembled axle idea.
https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=725027#Post725027

Grigg

I know this is old, but what is all this conversation about a dual wheel having existing solutions and a single wheel not?

I thought the front axle on a dual wheel and a single wheel are the same?
Tj

The axle may be the same but hub options are different depending on if you want dual or single wheels.

Grigg

Just figure it out on another thread...

What is the purpose? Is a dual front wheel the same offset as one of the two rear wheels? Why not keep them standardized? Does the dual front wheel hub have a higher load capacity?

Also, how are you deciding what size rotor is adequate for replacing the drum? Just looking at comparable size newer trucks and using thier diameter?

Thanks!
Tj

This thread is/was about single wheel trucks....

A truck with dual wheels (almost) always uses the exact same wheels in all 6 positions, certainly true for the trucks we're talking about.
The front hub on a dual wheel truck has more offset to work with the wheels with more offset. Often same load capacity.

It's more about finding a rotor that works well and fits than it is about finding one of a particular size. I personally want as large a rotor as you can find and fit, nothing wrong with lots of braking ability. I'd at least want rotors and brakes from a similar size newer truck.

For more disc brake reading check out this thread, it is the most up to date
https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=725027#Post725027
I'll admit that this whole subject is confusing and hard to follow and that I haven't figured out a perfect "kit" for big truck disc brake swaps. I among others have been working in this for a while and there is more than one way to do it, read some of the other recent threads on the subject too.

Grigg