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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 25 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 25 | I have a 207 that may be on it's last legs. What would be the best swap option: 216, 230, or 235? Or is there a better way? | | | | | Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 | Welcome to the Stovebolt!
I love questions that ask what is better, but don't define better.
What are you trying to accomplish? How are you going to use the vehicle when you've completed the swap?
Of your three listed options I'd choose the 235 as its the best compromise of looking like it belongs along with enchancements like pressure oil and insert bearings.
But in saying that I've decided for you what better is, and my choices might not be what you really want....
1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more... It's true. I really don't do anything but browse the Internet looking for trouble... | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | Swapping out a 207 for a more modern motor is not an easy task. If you do a search you will find some helpful hints. A modern 235 from 1954 up would give you a full pressure motor and plenty of power. You could also put a 216 valve cover on it to make it look closer to the period of your truck. If looks aren't important, a 250 would be a more modern and rugged motor. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 25 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 25 | Good point OldSub. Better means being able to drive the vehicle on a regular basis, but not a daily driver. I'd like to drive in all types of weather without worrying about getting stranded on the side of the road... so, in a nutshell, a reliable, running vehicle. I'm keeping the original engine for serial number purposes. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 | In Washington its possible to change the number on the title to that of the body just so you can change motors. Arizona probably has a similar process.
Based on your planned usage I'll stick with what I already said. A '54 truck 235 is an easier swap than a later 235 because it has the shorter water pump and will better fit the space.
You haven't said what the vehicle is. If I remember correctly the 207 uses a different bellhousing, which in turn matches different transmissions, than that a 216 or 235. Its a significant job, but swapping any motor into the place a 207 came out of will be a big job.
1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more... It's true. I really don't do anything but browse the Internet looking for trouble... | | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 25 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 25 | OldSub... The vehicle is actually a 1934 Chevrolet 4-Door Master with a 207 CI. I will be replacing the engine and the transmission together so I am not too concerned about matching the bell housing. I will also be looking to change the rear end as well... so basically an entire drive-train swap if possible. My Dad has a 1972 Suburban, 350 CI sweet ride... dark green with cream top... four wheel drive. The 1934 was his car and he's given it to me to get it back to its glory days. I'll take any help I can get to get his old car running again. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 5,337 | A 1938-46 Truck bell housing will bolt to a 216 or 235 and has the same bolt pattern as 32-36 pass trans, if you decide to use the stock trans.
See the USA in your vintage Chevrolet! My Blog | | | | | Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 | If I remember correctly, the transmission you have is a floor shifted non-synchro 3-speed. Something that looks similar but has synchros would be my choice.
But if you're replacing the transmission and rear axle maybe a swap to an automatic would simplify things enough to make that the right approach. You eliminate the clutch linkage that way and there are after-market automatic shifters that look a bit like the original 3-speed shifter.
If you are going automatic then looking at the 230/250 motors begins to make more sense. It won't look as original under the the hood, but you don't have to deal with adapters to put an automatic behind one either.
1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more... It's true. I really don't do anything but browse the Internet looking for trouble... | | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 25 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 25 | OldSub,
The 250 with an automatic transmission is sounding better and better. The original 3-speed shifter is as you say, non-synchro. The starter is now acting up. Can't get the engine to start... it turns over, but no start. I detected some smoke coming from the starter as well... got really hot. Shut things down quickly. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2009 Posts: 11 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Sep 2009 Posts: 11 | just was reading some postings... if you lived closer to Louisiana, I just happen to have a GMC 250 pulled from a truck for a big block rebuild. I was thinking of doing what you propose and decided to stay with the 235 original. It has an automatic tranny , engine, and all accessories( dist, alt,ac compressor,starter,etc. ready to go in. good luck with your project... terry | | |
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