The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 3:55 powerglide rear swap

I read some tech tips and post but still have a couple of questions,this is my first swap.
The 1940 Chevy suburban rearend is out and I have a 1953 powerglide complete rear out to replace it with.
I see the 53 is 2 inches longer from tip of drive shaft to front bolts on housing ,what should I do? Cut it down ,I don't think I can move it back 2 inches in wheel well and look right? Or can I ??
The 40 has spring perches that swivel some the 53 is solid plus closer to backing plate? Can I weld the 40 perches solid to the right sport on 53 housing? Or use 53 perches relocated?
Will just a 6 bolt axel from an 48 or older car fit the 53 powerglide rear so I can stay 6 lug? thanks for any help Bill

According to the tech tip you need to relocate the 53 spring pivots and perches and make a plate similar to a lowering block to relocate the wheels in the center of the opening. You MUST have the pivot type perches. You
CANNOT weld your 40 perches solid to the 53 axle. You may want to PM Jim about this.

If you want to stay six lug, you need to find a complete rear end from a 48 and lower passenger car and swap the 53 third member into it.

Hope this clears things up a little bit.

4.3in84toy You solved one problem,I now see the 53 spring perchs do swivel they where just rusted solid in place. Must they be welded of to the side or could I weld them on top of axel housing?photos on home page.( http://bmalone55.tripod.com/ )
I read a post where they welded up the 5 lug bolt holes and redrilled for 6 lug bolts, that should solve problem 2.
Now the 2 inch longer torque tube and drive shaft?
can it be cut down to length? I don't think the wheels would be centered in well well opening with the extra 2 inches of driveline.

As to the welding, you will have to satisfy yourself as to the welding. Make sure they are on there, still pivot and that your don't warp the axle housing in the process.

You need to build a plate that will put the wheels centered in the opening, like the article says sort or like a lowering block. As hard as this is to visualize, this will essentially take up the 2 inches as the perches pivot.

While its apart, you could weld up the flanges and redrill if you have to have six lug. Hubcaps will hide it anyway.

4.3in84toy The perchs are welded on rear housing and it is installed - all that is left is brakes and the 6 lug deal. Thanks for your help. Bill

Did you get it to line up right in the fender? Maybe you could post the technique you used for the sake of the archives and the next guy to try it.

4.3in84toy I moved the 53 perches in to center about 3" so they matched width between original 40 springs .welded them on same as they came on 53 -front side of housing - they fit on spring center bolt ok- looks like tire will be 1" or less off center of wheel well. I checked drive spline yoke it is 3&1/4 inches deep when I pushed housing forward to pearch, drive line stayed back in yoke 1&1/4 inches it should move both ways when road has bumps.
I have read post that 48-49-50-pass car with 6 lug axel will slip right in 53 powerglide rear so I can stay 6 lug? Anyone done this? thanks for your help I will post if problems arrise. Bill [img]http://[/img] [img] DSCF0030perchtacked.JPG [/img]

4.3in84toy I never put up a photo here before if it didn't work they are on my homepage. Or you can tell me how to post a photo. Bill