The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk 50 3/4 Ton Suspension & Brakes

I'm very new to the truck scene and looking for some advice. It seems that 3/4 parts are harder to come by. I would like to drop the suspension down about 3" or so without doing a complete swap. So first question is on the suspension other than the springs what is the difference between the 1/2 and 3/4? Is it better to put the lighter axles and suspension under to accomplish what I want to do? Where is the hot ticket for brakes? Stock? Bendix or ?? Thanks for now as I have to do some more reading before I ask more questions. Thanks

Welcome to the Stovebolt!

What else do you plan to do to the truck? I'm going to offer some answers but will assume as I do so that you intend to keep a basically stock inline and transmission. If you are swapping motors my answers would change.

There is a guy who 'drops' axles named Sid who will do your 3/4-ton front axle. That would be an easy way to get the front down. Check with Sid.

The rear is a little harder but you're probably also going to consider changing the ratio and possibly the entire rear. The stock gears are 4.57 and little steep for running the highways with a stock motor. I once talked to a guy who swapped to a rear with 3.42 gears and his 216 would not pull the truck any longer. I'd suggest something in-between if you are keeping a basically stock motor.

Once you've decided what you're doing with the axle, you can use lowering blocks and a c-notch to lower the rear of the truck. Or move the spring hangers and use a notch. Or 'Z' the frame.

There are lots of other options but they fall into the complete swap arena.

Regarding the brakes I would suggest going Bendix if not disk. There is actually a disk brake kit for your REAR axle but none for the front.

The following link is one of the best DIY disk conversions for the 8-lug trucks.John's Brake Project

Post more about what you are doing and I and others will be able to post more specific responses.

For what it's worth- I am happy as can be with the "new" 3.42 rear on my 3600. No problem getting him going from a dead stop in 2nd gear (only use the granny if starting off on a steep hill). I have a 235, not the 216- I don't know if that makes a lot of difference or not. That, and adding a half ton axle with disc brakes was the best mod i've done to him so far. I have driven him more this fall after putting on the new axles/brakes than I have in several years- much more enjoyable.

Don't forget to add seat belts- It's not the speed that gets you, it's the rapid deceleration.

Thanks for the replies. Yes my goal is to keep it basically stock. I don't know if moving to 1/2 stuff is the best bet or just keeping the 8 lugs. I apprecaite the tip on the axle for the front and just watch a 19 y/o heat the front on a jig and bend his old school style. That was interesting. I want to run lower, keep the patina and clean it up under the motor. I want it to pop once I open the hood. Now I assumed I have a 216 I'm still looking for the proper numbers as mine match the VIN Numbers but they aren't the numbers listed on the site that you can look up information. There is too much mud and junk on the pan but I will get out to the shop as soon as it gets above zero so I can see if 235 is stamped on the oil pan. I did get it fired off however I am in the hunt for a good throttle shaft and or new carb. Eventually I want to go with fenton or clifford split headers (not sure they will fit a 216), and dual carbs. That is down the road I just want to make it safe to drive for now and enjoy it like a rat rod. As time permits I will redo the frame on it, and work my way to the things I feel will matter.

So at this point I have access to a 60's front end that I can shorten to fit, but if I was to put a new rear end in do I just go the same year but look for the 1/2 ton stuff. Thanks again for the responses.