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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,210 Posts1,057,456 Members48,471 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 171 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 171 | Hello, I wrote in another threat that the clearance of the accelerator is only by 3cm from no speed to full speed. I turned the bellcrank but it won't be really better. Now my question, does exist different bellcranks for the trucks? Ask Wolfgang | | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 2,393 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 2,393 | Tim, I saw his post before about his lack of pedal movement. I'm wondering if he just needs to adjust the accelerator rod to the bell crank.
Drew
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 171 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 171 | | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 | Wolfgang, Did you use the water-pump relocation plate on that engine? From the looks of the valve cover and the location of the accelerator bell-crank pivot, I'd guess that it is a 56 or newer 235. Here are locations of casting codes, to determine the year of the engine. I think that Drew has the answer. The pedal to bell-crank rod probably needs to be adjusted. I'll post an idea for this later today (if no one else has ideas). Tim | | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 171 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 171 | | | | | | Joined: Feb 2005 Posts: 469 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2005 Posts: 469 | Looks to me like he's got a 54 full pressure 235.
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | Can we get a good closeup of the bell crank and the angles involved? Something must be wrong somewhere. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 | Wolfgang,
You have a 56-62 235 "848" head. That head was also a replacement head used on 54-62 235s.
If you can provide the other engine codes, we might be able to tell you the exact year of the head and block..
Is the pivot with the bell-crank directly under the carb or more towards the rear of the block? As truckernix suggests, a photo of the bell-crank and where it is in the block would help. It would also help to see a photo of the front of the engine, showing how/where the water pump is bolted to the block.
Tim
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 2,393 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 2,393 | In his album,picture #6 shows his repair of the accelerator rod,but I can't tell if it's properly bent from that photo.
Drew
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | A lot of times you need to put a swivel on the end of the rod at the carb. Various spacers & gasket thicknesses can change the distance & the rod is not long enough. They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 | Wolfgang, Your bell-crank looks like the ones on my 59 and 60 engines. The bell-crank on my 54 engines is different. This adjustable bell-crank to carburetor rod can be bent and it has an adjustable, swivel fitting (for carburetor end). If your bell-crank pivot is closer to the firewall (rather than under the carb), you might also have to shorten the length of the pedal-to-bellcrank rod. You could also place a coupling nut in the middle of the rod (cut the rod and thread the rod-ends). This coupling nut might allow you a little length adjustment. Tim | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 | Wolfgang,
Here are my guesses - someone will correct me, if I am wrong:
3836848 GM 21 driver side - this is a 1956-62 235 head
- on the head B59 848 passenger side - February, 5, 1959
- on the motor block near by the ignition control 3235793 small numbers - I think there should be some letters there, also? Were these numbers pressed into the ledge to the rear of where the distributor enters the block, or are these numbers in the casting, between the distributor and the road-draft tube?
- on the block CON 3 A194 January, 19, 1954 - this looks possible because the water pump is mounted high on the block, as was the case in 1954 but not in 1959
So, my guess is that you have high compression head on an older 1954 block - not a bad combination.
Tim
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 171 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 171 | Hi Tim, but whats the problem with f...... bellcrank? What can I do? I had looked by a friend who have a 1949 truck. Carb. and so many other thinks a different. I had measured at his truck there was a clearance about 7cm. I think thats the measure that is need to drive the truck. I don't know, are there exist different bell cranks that give more clearance at gas pedal? If you send me photos from your bellcrank may it can help. Good night Wolfgang | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 | Wolfgang, Here is a photo of a 1960 261 bell-crank and rods. This bell-crank is in the same location as on later 235s (I think). This engine is installed in a 1954 truck. The pedal-to bell-crank rod was cut and the bell-crank end of the rod was bent to attach to the bell-crank. The bell-crank to carburetor rod is the universal (Camaro) rod that I posted the link-to above. Tim | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | I just went out and measured the travel on my gas pedal. It was 4 cm. Now, when I replaced the floor, I found out that the gas pedal stop on the floor was preventing me from getting full throttle so I removed it. At that time the full travel would have been less than 3 cm. I hope this helps. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 171 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 171 | Hello Tim, it looks like the bellcrank of my truck. I had found a adjustable rod for the carb. Maybe I try to use it and I will hope this will work. Wolfgang | | | | | Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 116 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 116 | I have a question about bell cranks. I have a 1962 261 going in my 39 1/2 ton. I dont have a bell crank. I saw one in the speedway catalog. Are they universal or do i need one specific for the 261. I am running a dual carb set up
thanks Matt
http://www.flickr.com/photos/50657267@N08/sets/
1939 1/2 ton Resto-mod 1937 1 1/2 ton Is in the driveway
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2008 Posts: 1,923 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2008 Posts: 1,923 | My mistake, I thought someone would actually read this. oh, well. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 116 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 116 | very detailed explanation... thanks... but i need to know if i need a bellcrank specific to a 1962 261 engine or can i buy a universal one that i see in the speedway catalog
thanks
http://www.flickr.com/photos/50657267@N08/sets/
1939 1/2 ton Resto-mod 1937 1 1/2 ton Is in the driveway
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