The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Oil filter relocation

I'm changing the oil filter on my 235 from a canister on the intake manifold to a spin-on on the side motor mount boss. I'm using 1/4 steel tubing to route the supply line behind the exhaust. I'm having trouble with the return line. I can't make the bends tight enough to fit between the filter mount and the block. It's got to turn 90 degrees and drop a couple of inches in an overall length of about 7 inches. Has anyone got any wisdom on bending steel lines in tight turns without kinks?

Thanks.

Leon

Leon,
Did you tap your block for full flow oil passage?
Have you tried a radiused tubing bender? The local hardware store sells these spring tubes that are made for bending lines without kinking them.
I used one for the copper water lines n my manifold.
For my oil lines I built a steel plate bracket that goes on the forward side mount engine bosses(three holes just behind the generator) I made a plywood template to get the fit just right, then I used hydraulic fittings, I mocked it up using rubber hose and the actual hydraulic fittings I ultimately used, got the length and angles just right marked the orientation on the hoses and went down to my local hydraulic guy and he made up the lines with proper high temp lines.
I've been running it for about 2 1/2 years and it is perfect.
If you don't want to go that route you might try copper lines as they are a bit more malleable than steel.

Ray

Use a bender just like when working with brake lines. The old bypass setup has a restriction to slow the oil flow so if you are still on bypass, you will need that. Also, bypass filter elements use more of a depth filter because they don't need to accomodate a large flow rate.

It's a bypass setup. I've got 2 benders, the single groove and the plier type. Neither will bend tight enough to make the short hard line. I guess I'm going to have to use rubber for the return line.

regards,
Leon

Sounds like you need braided flex hose and/or 90 degree fittings to me without seeing it.

Have you tried a big loop to make the turn. Maybe that is an option.

I don't have it here to get the numbers from, and it doesn't seem to be on their site, but Lisle recently came out with a tube bending plier just for doing tight bends. The jaws are made at the ends to grab around the line, then they flare out so then when the line is turned, it bends on the radius. Pretty neat tool. I found mine from a tool dealer at Super Sunday in Indy.

Try finding copper pipe pieces & sweat the elbo in like you would plumbing.

I got the lines built. Here's a pic. I connected up the short line to the filter mount before bolting it down. In hindsight, I bet it would have been easier to take a 45 down out of the return side instead of straight.

Next is adding a restrictor to the filter return side and checking for leaks.

I'll have to keep a look out for that Lisle tool. I'm sure this won't be the last time I have to make lines.

regards,
Leon

Install looks good.
Funny you mention about that tool, as I've got the part numbers handy now. They are 44150 for 3/16" and 44070 for 1/4".

I have a question, it looks like you just used the by pass filter ports and installed a spin on filter.
How much oil pressure are those bypass lines running at and how many pounds of pressure does it take to depress the plunger in a spin on filter to get the oil to actually circulate through it?

Ray

Thanks for the part numbers. That looks like the right answer.
Here's a pic from ToolWarehouse.net. Maybe those go on my Christmas list.

Leon

Ray,

You're right. I just replaced the canister with a spin-on PH8.
The restriction will be in the outlet fitting at the spin-on adapter. So the inlet line will have about 20-25 psi and the return line will have essentially no pressure. I don't think the PH8 has an anti-drainback valve, but 20 psi should be enough to overcome it. I plan on using a 1/16 restrictor that will allow about a quart per minute through the filter.

regards,
Leon

I finally got this finished up. I found a pair of tight radius tube bending pliers at Harbor Freight. I remade the return line so that it fits much better (pic). For a resrictor, I drilled a 1/16 hole in a pipe plug and threaded it into the back side of the return side pipe fitting (pic). I also have a drawing showing the bolt patterns for the mounting adapter. Thanks to everyone for their help. Now its on to the dual exhaust install.

regards,
Leon

Nice job!!!!