The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot '60-'66 Trucks Frame resto question

I'm almost down to the bare frame in my 63. Just curious for those who had your sandblasted, what did you or the shop put on it afterwards? Are there options? Special paint? Just looking for any info before i try and talk buisness with a shop to sandblast the frame....thanks!

Do a search on Por15 or Eastwood Encapsulator and you'll get hours of reading material. For my personal use I like the POR15. It is tough as nails but has no UV resistance..but who needs it on a chassis. Just don't put it on your exposed pieces like maybe a bumper bracket. It can be sprayed but most folks use a DISPOSABLE brush. Once it touches anything its there. Takes days/weeks to wear off your hands and never comes out of clothing!! Wear gloves and old clothes AND a respirator....if you spray it have the very best available as this stuff will coat your lungs!
I could go on and on and on but if you will do a search you will find all you need to know!

And your smart to have it sandblasted! Its just not worth it to do it yourself for just one frame. Around here sandblasting is $100 an hour with sand furnished. Money well spent! Do not over look getting a monument place to do the blasting. Most are very good at it.

I had my frame shop sandblasted and then epoxy coated at the suggestion of the shop. I'm glad I did because the frame sat around outside for 6 months as I did other things and the finish held up really well. When you get your frame back go over it really well to remove excess blasting media. It gets everywhere and can be a pain when you are ready to paint if the media isn't removed.

x2 on the epoxy primer. It lasts almost indefinitely, and adheres so well it can be used as a base for body filler. About 10 years ago I blasted most of my frame and brush painted it with POR-15. Subsequently I discovered Zero Rust, which I now like better. The POR is hard as a rock, and great unless it chips. I have little rust pits popping out all over my chassis, many years after it was applied. I did some Zero Rust pieces about the same time, and those remain rust free. You can Google a number of links doing comparisons. The other nice thing about Zero Rust is it does not have isocynates, so it doesn't present the same level of health risk.

The Eastwood rust encapsulator is also a fantastic product. I used it on the bottom of my 46 Ford sedan about 25 years ago before Eastwood bought the rights and put their label on it. I applied the encapsulator to the bare metal, and painted over it with catalyzed enamel. 8 years and 300,000 miles later the bottom of the floor remained in perfect condition.

awsome..thanks for the replies guys!

I shot my frame with Martin Senior Etching Primer, Sealer, then a satin black acrylic enamel topcoat.

Frame pics

Nice work, and a nice looking website. Great looking layout and content. You've really accomplished a lot of progress on your truck.

Thanks again Markeb. As you know, some days are better than others when doing a rebuild to this extent. Hopefully, I'll have a full rolling chasis before Christmas....with updates on the website to prove it!

got my front end taken off and was thinkin of leavin the front crossmember on. i dont see a need to take it off and have it blasted as well, unless upgrading to disc brakes would have me take that out too? Does a early to mid 80's truck front end bolt right up to the 63's?

I sandblasted mine myself and just to keep it from rusting while I work on it I used SEM Etch Prime in rattle cans. Im considering having it powder coated so I might have to take it all off Im not sure. It's sat around for about a year in my garage and hasn't rust yet so its doing what I wanted it to do so far.

I did the self sandblast with a friends air compressor and airtank. For some reason he never ran out of air? 4000 gallon air tank and a LeRoi Road compressor

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1414776882054402330rBYKJr
However, without a deadman switch you let go of they hose and you're in for a treat!

68 bags of sand later and 2 gallons of 2 part MS epoxy

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1414776999054402330uNRuzz

Yeah I used one of those Harbor Frieght Blasters that looks like a propane tank. It doesn't take much to pull it as my compressor is just 3hp 20gallon. The thing I had a problem with in the begining was getting moisture in the line and it stopping up. I got one of those filter things like painters use that looks like a coffee can and you put a roll of toilet paper in.

ok i did some research, so far its down to por 15 or zerorust? anyone used zerorust? I hear it's cheaper than por15 and less hazardous...thoughts??

63lwbc10,

I didn't use either on my project but my vote would be for POR over Zerorust.

I put 2 coats of epoxy primer followed by 3 coats blk gloss urithane looks great and is tuff.

hey all! i have a question about using the eastwood rust converter on my 63 chevy c20 frame and cab....which is VERY rusty but still has potential...

How rusty can the frame be and still realistically benefit from using eastwoods products, or just these type of products in general (kbs, rust bullet, etc...)?

to put it in other words...are these rust prevention/conversion products for a frame with minor surface rust that only started to rust a year ago.....or will they actually work as well as we all hope they will with the realistic type 40 year old rust that we all usually see???

any insight would be much appreciated, and/or some pics if available??:)

Being there is a lot of wet weather bacl east I would be inclined to go with a good powder coating firm. Weighting the cost od materials and paint its just about the same and tuffer than paint.
62Blue
Don

I DID A 72 FRONT END JUST DRILLED 2 HOLES FIT PERFECT