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| | | Forums66 Topics128,026 Posts1,055,403 Members48,422 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 38 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 38 | I'm a new member here. I've owned a lot of AD pickups in the past. Several years ago I picked up a one owner 53 Chevy suburban from a junk hauler who cleaned out a farm. It only has 74K miles and original paint, heater and radio. Of course it's missing the 3rd seat. The burb drives ok but needs a clutch overhaul and installation of a refurbished gas tank. I bought all the replacement sheet metal for the front as well as new metal for the rear wheel areas. My question is this: What would be the best sequence for replacing front floorboards and lower cowl sections? My passenger door really needs to be lifted in order to be shut. So do I do the floor first then the cowl or visa versa? I'm not going to take the body off the frame as I just want a nice-looking, mostly original driver.
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2009 Posts: 95 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Feb 2009 Posts: 95 | Tony, Lots of folks have looked at your post but I will gladly take a few moments to offer some pointers. Where to start? You will need a place to disassemble the doors,heater and such. Get some ziplock bags,a sharpe ,and a camera. Take notes, ask questions. Get a good angle grinder and wire wheel. Clean up and remove all the bad areas. If you have some welding skills and can make a pattern from cardboard to replace the rotten stuff. You can't hurt anything,just go slow and brace up anything that will settle.Get a gallon of rust cutter from tractor supply and coat everything.
Sully
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 | What would be the best sequence for replacing front floorboards and lower cowl sections? I'm sure everyone has a different opinion on this. My thought is first make sure you like the alignment of the door and window openings, then weld in some crossbars to hold everything in place while you remove other structure. That way it may not matter the order and you can feel confident the doors and windows will fit when you are done.
1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more... It's true. I really don't do anything but browse the Internet looking for trouble... | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | Steve describes how we did the extensive floor board, toe board, and lower cowls on my Suburban. Also, the fellow who did my metal work would not touch it unless I left the cab on the frame (so he'd be sure it would fit right).
Floorboard, toeboard, inner cowl, outer cowl (rockers).
Tim
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2001 Posts: 793 Bondo Artiste | | Bondo Artiste Joined: Jun 2001 Posts: 793 | I think it is best to get the floor and main floor braces done first, and then the outer/inner cowl work done second. Worked well for me so far.
~ Phillip 1949 GMC Suburban - 10 year project 1952 Pontiac Chieftain Convertible straight 8 hydramatic 1945 GMC half ton truck - Driver- Sold 9-15-25 1946 Chevy COE - SOLD 1-5-26 BUH BYE CHEVY! 1959 GMC Half ton long bed NAPCO | | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 38 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 38 | Sully, Thanks for your reply. I will try to make a trip to Tractor Supply this weekend. I hope to be able to actually start in a few weeks. Tony | | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 38 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 38 | OldSub, Hey Thanks for getting back to me. I will have to work on the alignment big-time but I like the idea of welding in some braces to secure it. Tony | | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 38 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 38 | Tim, Thanks for your reply. I will definitely leave the body on to do this work. Mine is good enough to leave it that original with those repairs. Tony
Last edited by tonymus53; 10/30/2009 12:16 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 38 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 38 | Phillip, Thanks for the suggestion. It makes sense to have a good foundation to build on. Tony | | |
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