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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Aug 2009 Posts: 25 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Aug 2009 Posts: 25 | I have a couple questions. I did use the search to find some info on this but still need some help just to be clear. First, I bought a complete set of gaskets for the car, and the box says timing cover seal. Now I have the gasket which goes around the outside, but it is a thing that looks alot like a bearing that is the exact size of the hole in the timing cover. My question is, am I supposed to pop the seal out of the cover? Or does it go behind the cover? Also. I have seen on this site how people suggest tapping the front two bottom holes to 3/8 so you don't have to access screws from inside oil pan anymore. If you do this, what about the other two little holes between these original holes. When I took the bottom two screws out, they were holding a small little metal strip that was covering two small holes between the two screw holes? Also how do you get the cover back on perfectly centered. Again, I have searched this stuff, but need it explained a little more clear. I really appreciate it. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 431 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 431 | it sounds like you're describing the new oil seal, which if so, the old one comes out and the new one replaces it
"what about the other two little holes between these original holes?" i'm not sure that i'm following this question
there's a centering tool for that, but i'm guessing that someone here knows how to do it without it
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | What year and size engine are you referring to?
Regarding a centering tool for the round seal in a 216/235/261 timing cover, many people suggest loosely tightening the cover in place and then fitting the harmonic balancer in place, using the balancer to center the seal. The cover's bolts are then tightened.
Tim | | | | | Joined: Aug 2009 Posts: 25 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Aug 2009 Posts: 25 | I appreciate it. Does the old seal, just pop out? I don't know what the other two holes are. When I took the two bolts out from inside the oil pan that are the only two that help hold the timing cover on. They also had a metal strip that they both went through that was covering two seperate holes. Now I know that I have seen people suggesting drilling and tapping the holes a size larger so you can insert bolts from outside and then you would not have to take off oil pan every time you wanted to take the timing cover off. If you did this, then what do I do about these two holes that I found that are in between the original holes? They are kind of drilled at an angle. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2009 Posts: 25 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Aug 2009 Posts: 25 | My engine is the 235. I STILL CANt figure out if the seal just pops out of the timing cover? Can someone tell me. I don't want to be too rough with it and bend the cover trying to get it out. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 431 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 431 | without a puller - kinda hard to describe it, but, from the inside, with a small, angled screwdriver/prybar, hook it under the rubber so that the blade will be under the metal portion of the front of it, rest the edge on a surface while not blocking the seal, and give it a sharp rap with a hammer. no damage to anything other than maybe the rubber/spring
also, the metal strip should have been under the interior bolts, and it's tangs should have been bent up on the bolt heads as keepers/lockers so that the bolts wouldn't loosen from vibration and fall into the engine. but if you do the drill and tap for a front access, the strip won't be needed. and i'm guessing that the inside angled holes are weep holes, and used for any stray oil to drain back to the pan | | | | | Joined: Aug 2009 Posts: 25 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Aug 2009 Posts: 25 | That describes it pretty good. Now that makes sense, that those holes are weep holes. Thanks alot. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | There would not be any extra holes from the outside to the inside in the bottom of that cover. That area is rich in oil flow and that is why they have the seal. If I remember correctly, the reinforcement on the bottom is spot welded on to the cover and the welds may look like holes. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 431 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 431 | truck - the holes aren't from the outside to the inside of the cover. if i'm correctly remembering, they're on the crankshaft front bearing cap, and drilled on a down angle from cover side to oil sump. i'm going up to the shop shortly so i'll double check my memory
confirmation - they're approx 1/4" dia, and angled down into the pan, as if to drain
Last edited by rednate; 10/23/2009 8:20 AM. Reason: confirmation
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2009 Posts: 400 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2009 Posts: 400 | When I pulled my cover I had to drop the oil pan to loosen two bolts from the inside.Don't remember if I could pull the seal without removing cover. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2009 Posts: 25 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Aug 2009 Posts: 25 | yes, Rednate those are the holes I am asking about. So these are for drainage? If I move the bolts to the outside of the cover, these holes will just let oil seep in and out of the gear cover. To and from the oil pan to the timing gear cover? I still can't get this darn seal out of the cover. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,107 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,107 | hook it under the rubber so that the blade will be under the metal portion of the front of it, rest the edge on a surface while not blocking the seal, and give it a sharp rap with a hammer. no damage to anything other than maybe the rubber/spring the last time i did this it would'nt come out so i figured i go through the back door to get it out. needless to say what i thought was the edge of the seal was not. long story short i had to get a another timing cover  the lighting must have been bad that day in the shop. moral of the story, stick with pulling it out from the front via the rubber. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 431 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 431 | i don't really know, but i can't imagine pulling the seal via the rubber, bec i'd imagine the rubber just ripping out. and when i did it with an angled screw driver and hammer, it popped right out. no damage
i'm only guessing on them being 'drain' holes, and i haven't found an explanation otherwise. and i haven't found any mention as to discarding the locking plate, bec it'd be useless after the conversion ? | | |
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