The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
9 - 11 Memorials

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
3 members (Jon G, Otto Skorzeny, 1955 1 Series), 85 guests, and 2 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,026
Posts1,055,399
Members48,422
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#585706 10/23/2009 2:28 AM
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 38
T
'Bolter
'Bolter
T Offline
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 38
I'm a new member here. I've owned a lot of AD pickups in the past. Several years ago I picked up a one owner 53 Chevy suburban from a junk hauler who cleaned out a farm. It only has 74K miles and original paint, heater and radio. Of course it's missing the 3rd seat. The burb drives ok but needs a clutch overhaul and installation of a refurbished gas tank. I bought all the replacement sheet metal for the front as well as new metal for the rear wheel areas.
My question is this: What would be the best sequence for replacing front floorboards and lower cowl sections? My passenger door really needs to be lifted in order to be shut. So do I do the floor first then the cowl or visa versa? I'm not going to take the body off the frame as I just want a nice-looking, mostly original driver.

Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 95
S
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
S Offline
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 95
Tony,
Lots of folks have looked at your post but I will gladly take a few moments to offer some pointers.
Where to start? You will need a place to disassemble the doors,heater and such.
Get some ziplock bags,a sharpe ,and a camera.
Take notes, ask questions. Get a good angle grinder and wire wheel. Clean up and remove all the bad areas. If you have some welding skills and can make a pattern from cardboard to replace the rotten stuff. You can't hurt anything,just go slow and brace up anything that will settle.Get a gallon of rust cutter from tractor supply and coat everything.


Sully

tonymus53 #587179 10/28/2009 12:49 AM
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,152
O
Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
O Offline
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,152
Originally Posted by tonymus53
What would be the best sequence for replacing front floorboards and lower cowl sections?
I'm sure everyone has a different opinion on this.

My thought is first make sure you like the alignment of the door and window openings, then weld in some crossbars to hold everything in place while you remove other structure.

That way it may not matter the order and you can feel confident the doors and windows will fit when you are done.


1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more...
It's true. I really don't do anything but browse the Internet looking for trouble...
OldSub #587222 10/28/2009 2:42 AM
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 29,269

Steve describes how we did the extensive floor board, toe board, and lower cowls on my Suburban. Also, the fellow who did my metal work would not touch it unless I left the cab on the frame (so he'd be sure it would fit right).

Floorboard, toeboard, inner cowl, outer cowl (rockers).

Tim


Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 793
T
Bondo Artiste
Bondo Artiste
T Offline
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 793
I think it is best to get the floor and main floor braces done first, and then the outer/inner cowl work done second. Worked well for me so far.


~ Phillip
1949 GMC Suburban - 10 year project
1952 Pontiac Chieftain Convertible straight 8 hydramatic
1945 GMC half ton truck - Driver- Sold 9-15-25
1946 Chevy COE - SOLD 1-5-26 BUH BYE CHEVY!
1959 GMC Half ton long bed NAPCO
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 38
T
'Bolter
'Bolter
T Offline
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 38
Sully,
Thanks for your reply. I will try to make a trip to Tractor Supply this weekend. I hope to be able to actually start in a few weeks.
Tony

OldSub #587821 10/30/2009 12:10 AM
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 38
T
'Bolter
'Bolter
T Offline
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 38
OldSub,
Hey Thanks for getting back to me. I will have to work on the alignment big-time but I like the idea of welding in some braces to secure it.
Tony

tclederman #587823 10/30/2009 12:14 AM
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 38
T
'Bolter
'Bolter
T Offline
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 38
Tim,
Thanks for your reply. I will definitely leave the body on to do this work. Mine is good enough to leave it that original with those repairs.
Tony

Last edited by tonymus53; 10/30/2009 12:16 AM.
TrknGMC #587825 10/30/2009 12:18 AM
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 38
T
'Bolter
'Bolter
T Offline
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 38
Phillip,
Thanks for the suggestion. It makes sense to have a good foundation to build on.
Tony


Moderated by  MNSmith, Rusty Rod 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0