| |
BUSY BOLTERS Are you one?  The Shop Area
continues to pull in the most views on the Stovebolt. In August alone there were over 22,000 views in those 13 forums.
| | Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | | Forums66 Topics126,777 Posts1,039,270 Members48,100 | | Most Online2,175
Jul 21st, 2025 | | 
#58384 03/27/2006 10:14 PM | Joined: Apr 2001 Posts: 439 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2001 Posts: 439 | Referring to the mechanical one in the back of my '53 GMC half ton. I am going to the T5, I have a rearend from a '60 GMC that is the correct width. I was going to put it in the place of the stock rear and take the new brakes off my stock rear and put them on the '60 rearend (potentially swap the axles). But after seaching the forums for a while I have read that the centre pumpkin can be swaped in place and the pivot perches welded solid. What am I better off to do? swap the punmpkin or the axles? weld the pivot perches solid or build and weld new ones on the '60 axle? What does swapping the pumpkin involve? Thanks Much! Colin  | | |
#58385 03/28/2006 6:31 PM | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 83 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 83 | Hi Colin,
I have a 1948 Chevy PU, that I plan to pull the center section and replace with the 55 GMC pumpkin I have, and also replace the brake backing plates to upgrade to bendix brakes, and ditch the hucks, weld the perches and that is all I plan on doing. If you want to move your axle back a bit to center it in the wheel well, then you can remove the pivot apparatus, and weld on some new spring perches. Then have a driveline made, oh and you will need the back bearing retainer and output shaft for the new driveline. But that is personal preference.
Hope this helps, Garry K
Garry K in Pac Nor West
1948 Chevy PU 235 SM420 4 spd
1932 **** B pu
1964 Datsun 4x4 with SBC, SM465 4spd and Rockwell xfer Dana 44Fr and 12 Bolt Rr.
| | |
#58386 03/28/2006 6:40 PM | Joined: Apr 2001 Posts: 439 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2001 Posts: 439 | Thanks Garry!
That helps alot. You are doing it with a '55, I have heard the rearends are the same from 52-62. If so, it should work for me to. I am definantly going to move the rearend back more.
Thanks!
Colin | | |
#58387 04/14/2006 12:01 AM | Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 2,031 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 2,031 | http://www.stovebolt.com/bboard/cgi-bin//ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=010333;p=1#000000
Jim & Caroline
The highway is for gamblers, better use your good sense."
Gooday-that's my 1¢ answer due to the lousy economy ~ cause I ain't got - no . mo . doe
Every Shaver | Now Can Snore | Six More Minutes | Than Before ... | Half A Pound for Half a Dollar | Spread On Thin | Above the Collar || BURMA-SHAVE
| | |
#58388 04/14/2006 1:22 AM | Joined: Jan 2004 Posts: 223 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2004 Posts: 223 | If you just switch pumpkins, you do not have to deal with switching backing plates, (because I believe you already have bendix,) dealing with P-Brake cable, etc. You will have to deal with the proper pinion angle in either swap. The angle of the rear end pinion shaft (under normal load) should match the angle of the transmission shaft. I always question the moving of the the axle back to center it in the wheel well if you are trying to keep a stock look. Good luck,
Steve O | | |
|
|
| |
