The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Help with Harmonic Balancer

Spent all morning trying to install a nos front pulley on my rebuild 235,with no luck, it will go almost within half an inch of seating then stop dead. I've tried letting the crank end get real cold , heating the pulley with a hair dryer..no luck..freezing the pulley to put it on, same results, all this useing a block of wood pounding with a BFH.

put the pulley in the oven @200 degrees, then it will go right on, brian

Not sure about the 235 but on a sbV8 you need to use an installation tool. A large bolt with a bearing and nut to push it on with. Mine always push on hard all the way. You can borrow one at a lot of auto parts stores with a tool loaner program. Advanced Auto,or Autozone are two in this area. Good luck and careful with the BFH.
Bob

there is no threaded hole in a 235 crankshaft so an installer will not work,,brian

I tried a wood block and BFH installing the balancer on my 38. No luck. I ended up using a 1" steel bar and a BFH making sure I struck on the dead center of the balancer where the crank handle goes. I'd personally be a little wary of getting the balancer too hot for fear of degrading the rubber inside.

Thanks a lot guys, I like the idea of using a piece of iron stock as a driver, I've got busted wood all over my shop. I'm gonna leave my engine outside tonight under the shop shelter (temp about 29F) & heat the pulley with the hot air blower. Keep yer fingers crossed.
Cliff

200 degrees will not hurt the balancer(dampner actually) engines run hotter than that all their lives,,a hair dryer will be hard pressed to raise the temp more than a few degrees, brian

The difference using steel instead of a wooden block will be significant.I used a large pipe nipple and a piece of 1/2" stock.

Having experienced the same problem with my 54-235. I simply drilled the end of the crank, tapped in threads and then used a conventional puller/installer to complete the seating. I was amazed at how easily the crank drilled, tapping was also a no-brainer. Beating on the balancer with a BFH might get the job done but what about the next time you want to change the timing cover seal? Drill, tap, and forget the oven! (except for pizza) Just my little ole $.02.

Put it on the stove on medium heat for 10 minutes and then it will go on loose. Don't forget the oven mitts. Then use the hair dryer on cool to shrink it on. It will scare you it will go on so loose. Hold it in place with the mitts for a minute or two.

Curt B.

You are probably correct. My concern wasn't the 200 deg. so much as the fact that many ovens will spike well over the set temp while warming up. That is why preheating is always advised when cooking. Also since nearly everything rubber on the 38 went to hell from the heat of just sitting in the barn for 20+ years, I'm a little weary of overheating any old rubber. The door seals actually melted.

Drilling and tapping the crank is no big deal.

Use progressively larger bits. Start small and don't go up to big on the next one. Then run a tap through it. Then run a drill through the front 1/2" of threads.

You can buy a bolt and washer at any speed shop, or just buy a grade 8 bolt and washer at Lowe's or Home Depo for lots less.

PS once the balancer is on you'll have to take the bolt back out, otherwise the fan blades hit it.

drilling the front 1/2" of threads is so you don't have to crank so much on the bolt.

I went with the cold engine (sat outside all night in 29F temp) heated the pulley at 200 degrees for about 20-25 minutes & with a wood block and bfh it went right on. Next time I'm gonna drill & tap. Thanks to all