The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay single wire alternator

does any one know a part number or vehicle that uses a GM single wire alternator? i want to get a new one not rebuilt. ron

Single wire alternators are for tractors and other machinery. I doubt you'll find a GM auto with one.

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This is my reference source for GM single wire alternators

thanks very much Niagara, that is what i was looking for. ron

Ron,

IF you have an alternator on your truck now and IF there is a good auto electric shop near you, they can simply swap the internal regulator and....presto, your alternator is now a single wire unit!

Stuart

or you can run a wire from the excite to the B+ and have a single wire.

Scott,

I haven't seen that before. With the proper regulator, DA#1 is not used and DA#2 (sensing) is run to BATT. Do you have a link to any info on the procedure you outline in your post?

Stuart

HERE you go along w/a picture
Make your own...

Pro's and Cons on a one wire alternator...Joe

Joe,

All your links are to articles outlining conventional three wire installations. The only article that doesn't utilize DA#1 has had the regulator replaced...just like I mentioned in my post!

Scott has indicated you can take a standard 10SI alternator, clip DA#1, run DA#2 to BATT (where it usually resides anyway) and you have yourself a single wire installation. I would love to see the article that shows this exact procedure.

Stuart

i think i am just going to order a single wire from Jegs. they have it in black which i think would look good and its a 63 amp.

One wire alternators are custom built and were never used on any automotive or any other applications, from the factory. The most popular units were the Delco 10SI and the higher output 12SI units. There are different ways to build a one wire alternator. The voltage regulator is the key component that makes the alternator different from factory units. The internal voltage regulator excites when the alternator reaches a specific rpm. With that said there are a variety of regulators with different rpm settings, depending on the aftermarket mfg. for the regulator. You typically want a LOW cut in regualtor that will excite at lower rpms, this way your not having to rev the motor up to get the alternator to charge. Low cut in regulators are available that will cut in as low as 300-400 rpms. There is another special regulator that is designed for the Delco alternators that will kick in almost as soon as the pulley starts turning. The 10 and 12SI alternators can be built in a variety of amperages and voltages. 6,8 and 12 volt, pos. or neg. ground for either of the voltages. They can be built up to 100 amps. I usually stop there, if you need more amperage you need to step up to the later model alternators like the CS-130 etc. The 10 and 10si units can also be built with a variety of pulley widths. The true one wire alternator has just that, ONLY one wire, that comes off of the BAT. terminal post on the rear of the alternator and the plug in post are blocked of with a special block out plug. This makes the wiring very clean and simple. Much easier and cleaner than the old 3 wire units etc. If your needing a true 100% new unit IM me and let me know, I will give you some pricing. I dont bother with rebuilt units, I only build them new internally and externally. Hope this info helps you out and let me know if you have any questions.

105 amp 1-wire alternator

Ok, what should the voltage gage read at idle?? i have replaced the alternator 3 times this week. one definitely bad and the other 2 seem to be marginal in there output at idle, just below 13. i have no high draw items on the truck and if that is sufficient i will not replace this one. i can order one from jegs if need be. what started this, was the ears broke while trying to tighten the belt, not by me, but the old one ran at about 13.5. would a low battery cause it run low trying to charge it? ron

Maybe I'm wrong but I think I read somewhere that you have to get the rpms up first before the 1-wires start charging sufficently...I'm not sure but please correct me if I'm wrong..........dave

If that is the case a smaller diameter pulley on the alternator will turn it faster at idle. Kick the idle up just a bit and see if the charge rate is still too low. If it's OK at a faster idle try a smaller pulley.

You can not determine the charge rate by looking at a voltmeter. On top of that, the voltmeter is reading the available voltage in the system. A one wire alternator is not. The exciter wire, which should be out there reading the system, has been eliminated. So the regulator is sensing voltage available at the alternator. There is a lot more available there.

seems like i can relax a little, just took the truck for a drive and meter is reading above thirteen with the latest install, fourth. ron

Hey Zookeeper, excellent advice, I've used this same technique before and had great results.