The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 250/292 swap in 1953 3100

Im wondering if anyone has done this swap and if there is alot of engineering involved and what combination tranny and rearend did you use?? Im losing my patience in the search for a 261.. and if a friend with a salvage yard that has 292 and 250 all over..

I put a 250 in my Burb, 5 speed, 12 bolt rear out of a 68 Chev Van. I used the tubular V8 motor mount from Chevy Duty, cut in the middle to make it fit the 6. used the tubular tranny mount from same. I used a spacer between the tranny and bellhousing instead of the cutting of splines and other mods to male the 5 speed work.

check here?

http://www.stoveboltengineco.com/acartpro/product.asp?productid=138

I wish I had known about those mounts, rednate! I installed a 250/th350 in my Dad's '49 3/4 ton. I suspended the engine/tranny in place and built motor mounts and trans mount to fit. Welded them right to the frame. We used a rearend out of a '92 Dodge van, but it was 3/4 ton so won't help you. But the 250 actually has quite a lot of power to move the truck around. Rearend gear is (I think) 3.92-ish.

I'm in the process of doing the same with my '50 and a '65 292. I used the original rubber engine mounts and then fabbed up some pieces to weld to the frame. I'm putting in a NV3500 five-speed with a transfer case for 4-wheel drive so I had to make the crossmember with a piece of 6" well casing in it for the front driveshaft to go through. But then I like to make stuff and have access to the tools. . .

Craig

there are other mounts out there, but those were the first that came to mind

yeah, hang it and build to it. and there's always the option to make a cardboard mock-up with the necessary dementions and hang it. in fact, i'm pretty sure there are companies that sell
'cardboard' engines for that purpose

Hey you can go to langdons stovebolt and he has the mounts for the engine. the radiator has to be moved forward as the engine is longer than a 235. you choose your carb and headers if you like-langdons sells those too. Dual master cylinder up grade-you can keep it simple or go radical. you may use the original carb,manifold or clifford performance sells a 4 barrel alum one for around 259.99. call diane at patricks truck parts- this lady will your mind with her advance chevy design knowledge.any questions email me @[email protected] have 54 chevy 292 sm420 trans, original carb,headers,12 bolt 6 lug posi rear, sids drop axle, dual mc -plan to upgrade later to a 2004r trans and cast iron headers. Tube heades are thin and burn through from moisture after 5 years or so. will upgrade to a 390 cfm carb also ...take your time and decide what you want -there are alot of options and prts for our lovely ole trucks....

also one more thing...make sure your bell housing is from a 66 and up chevy truck the earier ones do not have the angle design as they were flat. any trans will bolt up i.e. sm420 350,200r4. bell housing has a chevy or B.O.P bolt design. and earlier I said my rear was a 12 bolt it is a 10 bolt posi 6 lug from a 78 chevy 1/2 ton. wanted to stay 6 lug.lol good luck you are in the right place- I have been here for years and being an old country boy-(oklahoma) the folks here treat you like family. Just pass along your experience and gained knowledge with someone who needs your help and be respectful,( to others and yourself) is all they ask. welcome and Happy Stove Bolting!

I cant tell you how much i appreciate the info,, thanks craig

No problem! I've gotten a lot of help here too, so I'm glad to return the favor.

I should mention a couple of things. . .The tranny mount is obviously not welded to the frame. And the "original rubber mounts for the engine" are the ones that were on the '65 292 engine - side mounts not front mounts like the 235.

On Dad's truck we had to move the radiator forward. Incidentally, we were cruising the junk yard and found a radiator out of a Dodge Dart with a slant six in it. . .we had to drill a couple of holes in the mounting flange, but it was almost like it was made for the truck!!

Good luck!

Craig

HOW FAR FORWARD DID YOU MOVE RADIATOR?? AND DID YOU GO TO AN ELECTRIC FAN??

We mounted the rad. to the FORWARD flange of the rad. support. We are still running the mechanical fan without a shroud and seem to be cooling just fine. We went on a poker run in July that took us over a mountain pass with no problem. But I've got to admit, an electric fan would mean a gain in horsepower.

Craig

hey i know this is late to the conversation but what did you do for the oil and temp gauges ?iin regards to the stock ones, does anyone make some so you can use them

i just put a 250 in my 52 panel after my 235 died and now i’m looking and going “what”?

hey i know this is late to the conversation but what did you do for the oil and temp gauges ?iin regards to the stock ones, does anyone make some so you can use them

i just put a 250 in my 52 panel after my 235 died and now i’m looking and going “what”?

Horsepower used to drive an alternator and drive an electric motor that drives a cooling fan is the same horsepower required to drive a factory mechanical fan. Cycling an electric fan off with a thermostat during cool weather would save horsepower.

Ed

[quote=chevoldsmoyota]We mounted the rad. to the FORWARD flange of the rad. support. We are still running the mechanical fan without a shroud and seem to be cooling just fine. We went on a poker run in July that took us over a mountain pass with no problem. But I've got to admit, an electric fan would mean a gain in horsepower.

I know this is a super old thread but was wondering if you could share some pictures of how the radiator is installed in its support. I’m trying to install mine with a 292 and it’s real close to the pulley with no fan.

Thanks!

OP has not logged into the site in a year and a half.

Mountain pass in Texas?

Ed