The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk swapping '55-'57 to 4x4 what 's best the way

If I was going to swap a '55-'57 short box stepside chevy to 4x4 running gear what's the best way and what's going to look right as far as wheelbase and it looking like a factory job? I've been told that swapping onto a 1973 blazer frame and running gear works well but that's just what i've been told.

I would recommend looking for a NAPCO set-up, because it's a direct bolt in. If you want later model running gear, you could do the Blazer frame, but they rarely look right. One way that I've thought about in the past is to take mid-70's Chevy axles, move the spring perches and mount them to the original springs- if I remember correctly, the front spring perches are already the correct width. For a professional job, you should probably have the axles narrowed so they don't stick out so far... that's usually the first sign of a later model swap. I would also recommend using a divorced transfer case like a NAPCO Spicer, or a Rockwell; it would be easier to mount and look original.

Good luck, George

Well, my son and I put his 57 on a 77 SWB chevy truck. He wanted the tires to stick out anyway. A napco would be $$$ and hard to find. If I wanted to use my stock frame I would use some mid70's-80's jeep wagners axles their dana 44 and are not as wide as the chevy and fords. and they are open alxes that turn alot shaper than the old ball type that was on the napco. here is a link to his build thread on another form. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=324188http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=324188

Tyme55,

As Napco Man mentioned, a Dana44 front axle should bolt right up to your original front springs, you will just need to get 3 new U-bolts made up, as well as a couple of Grade-8 bolts of the correct length (you may also need to make up some plates to bolt everything together).

As far as the rear axle, get some 4" Lift Blocks and some longer U-Bolts and you`re done. Just make sure the gear ratio is the same for both axles. If you get a matching axle from a donor truck, you will probably have to move the spring perches in a little. Nothing to terribly hard, just a bunch of grinding and welding required.

I`ve got a Dana 60 front and Dana 70 rear under my `59 3800 (One-Ton) Longbox. Pics start here: http://good-times.webshots.com/album/562816192hotBxO?start=36

Lane

Been there done that. Used ORIGINAL frame. If you want automatic and 205 transfer case, like I did, 1980 is the newest year for that combo. Get a donor truck or suburban, Width is OK and can be tweeked with wheel offset. Wheelbase does not matter. Big, Important issue is: Front axle is fixed in same position as orig, therefore the driveline geometry takes you thru the front drive shaft into xfer case, into transmission, onto eng mounts and associated firewall clearance. there is not much room for altering this "fixed" positioning all started by the front axle. It worked for a big block so small block is the same except for front of eng "stickout". Only other Big issue is pinion angle, this is controlled by xfer case mounting and new weld on perches on donor rear axle. Use tranny, xfer case, shaft and fr axle from same donor. Several fab pieces needed re: Power steering box, front spring hangers/shackles, rear spring hangers/shackles and F and R shocks. Advantage: Body fits, gas tank fits, and a lot of other big/little stuff fits because of orig chassis. Bumpers, braces, e-brake, radiator, gas and brake pedals. You also get power steering, power disc brakes, better(tapered roller) bearings,sway bar, etc etc. See pic of my 56GMC carryall.

In addition, adapting the later axles to the stock frame save you from having body/frame mounting issues. The later frames use a drop center rather than the basically flat frame of the earlier trucks. By using the stcok frame, you know the cab will fit correctly.

The frames on the square bodys and the TF trucks are the same width so you need to do block up the front cab mount 4" and use the TF OEM mounts on the new truck frame, OR use a blazer or suburban frame (ther're flat)

Blazer frame is to short, 'Burb frame is too long. No real need to swap the frame, the original is already set up for beam type axles.

Like longbox said. Also the wonderfull thing is 2WD 55-59's have LEAF springs in the front! So the frame is just made for axle swaping. After all that's what a napco conversion is. Read Bartamos and Longbox. Enough said. (by me)

I thought he wanted diffent opinions, not just yours. I didn't say my way was the best or only way. He's a big boy he can make up his own mind what will work for him.

You are right, he should get everyone's opinion. My post seems like I mean I have the only answer. Didn't mean that. "read longbox and me for same idea" and "enough said by me" means I'm done posting too much, that's all. Didn't come out that way. Hope this corrects it. What happened to the big boy anyway?

I found a 2wd 55.2 ($2,000) and then found an old 58 NAPCO panel for the 4x4 axles and a 10,000lb factory winch ($1,500). I've seen just the 4x4 system on Ebay for a lot less. It was a pretty straight forward swap. Drill four holes in the middle cross member for the divorced transfer case, 3 in the side of the frame for the TC shift mount and swap in the axles. I loved the look of the NAPCO front axle because the pumpkin is round and the steering shaft is behind the axle rather than in front. It gives it a military look. The problem is the brakes are drum. I figured that I won't be driving this thing on the highway anyway so that should be fine. But I did install a power brake booster, dual master cylinder and cross drilled brake drums, front and back. Hopefully it will help in the stopping area. In my opinion this is the easiest way. But it depends on what you want your truck to do. Do you want it to fly down the highway? Stop like a modern truck? If so, go with bartamos's plan. I can't wait for that book to come out! I will be your first customer! Also, you can't just throw in a 4" lift block in the back and be done, you need the shim that goes with it as well. It turns the pinion up just enough to keep the ujoints happy.

Good luck and let us know what route you are taking. PM me if you want more info on my build.

Michael

if you use the frt and rear axles from a 70-71 chev they are a littls narrower than the 73 and up . they have disc brakes and the newer style p/s. also they have 5 stud axles in a half ton.
you could also use a divorced 205 t/case though you will have to find a pass/side drop.they were avail from dodges and IHC's of the early 70's
ron
just opens more avenues of possibilities

5 stud 4X4 ????????????????????

I belive in those years that would be a Ford....

That is a roger.

Dodge 1/2 tons were also 5 lug, as was IH.