The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Ready to Buff, But what should I get?

Howdy All,

I hope hump day is going well for all of you. If not PM me and I will add you to my prayer list.
OK..
Now that I have my truck all painted and clear coated, I have started my color sanding process. I just started on one panel at a time and such.

Do you guys have any advice on which type of buffing process to use? I see some folks using several diff pads and diff compounds. I need to get everything but the buffer. I have a Mikata buffer 2 speed with a wool (3M)super buff pad on it already. I am not planning to use the wool pad.

Would you go with say one of the Meguiars kits or 3m setup?

So far I like this kit and system...
http://www.toolsource.com/solo-liquid-system-starter-p-100671.html

I am still unsure if that backup pad will fit my buffer. I think it has a 5/8 shaft...

I would appreciate any help or advice..

You saying that it doesn't look good enough after being clear coated to drive,or are you looking to achieve that totally flat finish.
If it was me I'd wait till next spring to color sand and buff.
I say that because if you wait the paint will cure and get harder and it won't be so easy to burn thru on the high spots plus if you do it when the paint is fresh the curing continues and next year it will not look as good as when you finished it now.
I realize that's not what a body shop would do, nor would I on a street car paint job. It's what I'd do if I wanted the best I could get.
As far as what product, I have not come up with a preference because I don't use them everyday and have found that both work well. It's like asking if Dupont is better than PPg paint.
There's always someone who will like one over the other and vice-versa.
Dan

Michael,
Not an expert here, but I've been trying quite a few different ways to buff urethanes in the last couple of years and I think I've finally found a system I'm really happy with.
After color sanding with 1000, 1500, then 2000 paper, I went with a Meguiars wool pad on my Makita with Meguiars new M105 compound. I've found that I really need to start with a wool pad and compound, it takes a pretty aggressive setup at first to really remove those sanding scratches. Followed that up with a Meguiars maroon foam pad and the same M105 compound. Then switched to their yellow foam pad and their M205 polishing compound. Then I used their tan foam pad on my DA polisher with the M205. Followed up with a hand glaze and some wax and it's like glass.
I know this sounds like an ad for Meguiars, but I really like the stuff. I tried the all in one system from Norton and although the results were OK, I didn't think it was quite aggressive enough to completely level a color sanded surface. I then went through a time of experimenting with all the various Meguiars products, compounds, cleaners, swirl removers, etc., but still hadn't really settled on anything. When they came out with the new M105 and M205 this year I decided to try it and it looks like I finally found a system I'm really satisfied with. Plus I only need to stock the two products and four pads.
Just be careful if you're new at this. It's pretty aggressive with the wool pad at first.

Bob

And believe me, if you had ever seen Bob’s truck you would know that he knows what he's talking about.
Hey Bob, ya gotta quit polishing up that beauty and take her out for some others to see. I fully expect to see her on the trailer come spring, lots of shows to go to and you better clear off the mantle and make room for a bunch of trophies.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Bob, Sounds like you have went to the enth degree. Was that test done on black, just curious cause black is not forgiving of anything. Even it it wasn't it sounds like you've nailed it down to achieve the ultimate finished product.
I like your sign off saying. I'll second that !
Dan

I have been useing the 3000 grit DA paper. After I get the peel flat with 1000 and 1500, then I grab the DA with the 1500 then go to the 3000. It makes the buffing go SO much faster, with better results.

Bob,

I am thinking I am in-line with what your saying. I have started my color sanding process and am working on panel at a time. I am cutting with 1200, 2000 and 2500. I am not trying to get it 100%.. I just want to give it a better than say factory paint job. My Silverado has factory o-peel. At any rate.. I have order 2 buffing systems and gotten a new buffer. My old buffer goes too fast. With the 2 buffing systems plan to figure out the best combo.

I have that place behind the cab and in front of the bed to play with so.... at least I can test. I spoke with a feller at the local junk yard and he said he would let me borrow a couple car hoods to play with as well.

Thanks to all the folks that have helped.

Oh, I forgot to add... My Makita buffer runs from 2000 to 3800 RPM so, it was too fast for some of the stuff. The one I am getting turns much slower.

57, I've heard good things about going up to 3000 with a DA. I'm still stopping at 2000 by hand, but it still is coming out pretty nice. This is on Forester green single stage, which is still pretty dark and shows scratches pretty easily.
Michael, I usually run in the 1500-2000RPM range with my Makita. About number 3 or a little above on the speed control dial.

Bob

ok, Cool Mr. Bob...

That older Makita I have has 2 speeds, 2000 and 3800. It still works great but goes too fast for me to try to buff clear coat. I am just glad I did the research and had the help of all the folks here.. I do believe I would have really HOSED something up.

My new buffer should be here in another hour or so... I am not sure if I would be able to try it tonight or not. i got a couple of junk parts to try it on. I have already washed them up and wet sanded them.