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#573380 09/11/2009 6:14 PM
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 197
J
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
J Offline
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 197
Not sure what section to put this in since it appears the 1-ton section is now gone. For a couple of years I been back and forth with frame swap and what to do to the 1-ton to get it to the 1/2 I really want. Even put it up for sale/trade anything but no takers, so I decided to cut the frame. The question I have is shortening it by 21"insane and will I be able to get a drive shaft that I can use that is not a 2 piece that will work in the stock transmission.
I guess while I am at it has anyone done this? I plan on replacing the over geared rear axle since it is more than I will ever use with a more recent variation and better gearing. I have 2 beds, so I figure one of them will work and the wheel should now fit under the fenders rather than the Dually.

Thoughts, considerations, directions....

Thanks

Last edited by Jackyl; 09/11/2009 6:26 PM.
Joined: May 2005
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G
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G Offline
Joined: May 2005
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Originally Posted by Jackyl
..to get the 1/2 ton I really want...
The question I have is shortening it by 21" insane and will I be able to get a drive shaft that I can use that is not a 2 piece that will work in the stock transmission.

I still say this is a lot of work and not the best idea. If you want a 1/2 ton buy a 1/2 ton, there are lots of them out there.
Just shortening the 1 ton frame may not solve all your problems. What about axles and springs? do you want 1 ton stuff or 1/2 ton stuff? There may be other small issues that crop up.
It may still be simplest, quickest and or cheapest to buy a good 1/2 ton or just a parts truck, or pickup a cheap or free frame at the least. I know they are out there, I looked about a year ago and found several that were very reasonable, one free (didn't purchase any headscratch better finish the first project before starting a second..)

No, shortening the frame 21" is not insane, hopefully you can make the crossmembers work out in the process, and you do an excellent job prepping and welding, or have it done professionally.
You can have most any driveshaft you could ever need modified or made new, really not all that expensive. I expect going to a one piece shaft will be OK. Here's a Tech Tip on drivelines http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/driveline/setup/index.html

Grigg


1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Joined: Dec 2006
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J
Wrench Fetcher
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J Offline
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Posts: 197
Went out to the garage last night, did a lot of measuring and thinking. I actually think it might be easier to move the leaf springs from my donor El Camino(this one has leaf springs for some reason) and the rear over and not cut the frame in the center section but cut it at the rear of the truck. My plan is never to carry anything in the back of the truck anyway, so having the added heavy duty rear is not an issue. I want to be able to cruise at 60 and keep the engine that is there and have a standard truck bed in it.
I will probably go back and forth for a while because I am still concerned about the weight of the frame rails and the overall new height of the axle and how to get it even with the current one. I want to run wheels that are close to the front since I will leave the 1 ton fronts on for now till I can afford a swap there too.
All of the 1/2 tons I have found that I could even think of purchasing have been dogs. I think cutting or even moving is easier than a frame swap so that is the reason I am pursuing that direction. I do not mind the bigger tires, I just want the better highway speeds for now.

Joined: Feb 2004
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H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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How do you plan to put the bends in the rear frame to clear the drive axle? Isn't the 1-ton frame straight from the back of the cab to the rear crossmember? I've got two 1/2 ton frames I'll give you, one from a 1950 GMC, and another from a 54 Chevy. Just come and get them!
Jerry

Last edited by Hotrod Lincoln; 09/12/2009 2:56 PM.

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Joined: Dec 2006
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J
Wrench Fetcher
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J Offline
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Posts: 197
Yes it is straight, but since I am leaving the height of the truck and not really lowering it I do not see any issue with clearances because I will have probably a good 8in of space between the frame and the axle.

If you were closer I would certainly take you up on the offer,but it would be a long road trip.

Joined: Apr 2009
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T
New Guy
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 16
I struggled with this same question. I found a half ton frame to build and will put my 3800 body on it. There is no physical difference in the body other than the 3800 on the hood.
The one ton frame is a lot heavier and bulkier.

Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 197
J
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
J Offline
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 197
The heavier part is kind of why I am debating keeping it too. I like the idea of a little more metal. Long term goal would be to throw a large engine in and make it more a rod, this would certainly take the torque.


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