Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
1 members (baldeagle),
37
guests, and
2
robots. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,014 Posts1,055,327 Members48,419 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Sep 2009 Posts: 69 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Sep 2009 Posts: 69 | we are doing a ground up restoration, and our engine is a 235 from a 1954 winch truck. we plan on making this engine slightly more practical with a little bit more punch.
1. obviously one thing i have seen is the intake. any prefered carburators, or intake manifold. im not interested in fuel economy, because the truck is gonna be a sunday only truck.
2. i read somewhere that it is smart to switch to a high pressure oil system. is it a kit that i need to buy?
3. i also read that the babbit bearings should be replaced. replaced with new babbit bearings or a different type?
4. and maybe one day i will put cams in it. so any suggestions? i don't want super hot cams, but something to add a nice sound and an extra few ponies
thanks!
2000 Nissan Frontier, 3.3L (sold) 2006 Chevy Cobalt SS, 2.4L 1952 Chevy 1/2 pickup, 235 c.i. I6 when life speeds up, downshift
| | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | According to what I read in your other post, #2 is already taken care of. The original engine from your '52 would have been the low pressure oiling engine, but starting in '54 (trucks, c=qutomatic cars had it in '53), the Chevy 235 went to full pressure oiling. They filtration is still bypass, though. Not really a big deal, just keep on top of the oil change schedule and you'll be fine. This also eliminates #3. Your engine has replacable insert style bearings, just like a late model. Don't recall the exact year that changed, but it was before '52. On #1 and 4, you'll get lots of opinions. Now, myself, I like the Holley Model 1904 carb. It looks good, it's dirt simple to work on, jets are easy to get (same as 4 bbl Holley), and they perform well. There's only one choice of intake if you buy new, and that's the Offenhauser. Several places carry it, Patricks and Langdons are the 2 most popular places. Langdons is also modified for water heat and to use the Webber designed Pinto carburetor. For a cam, you'll have to solid lifter. Had it ben a passenger car automatic block, you could run hydralic, but trucks are solid only. You've heard mine, I'm running a Howard M4F 3/4 race grind. it came from Patricks. Along with the dual carb intake, you may want to consider a Fenton split header for dual exhaust. That'll get you that rumble, and they sound good, too.
Bill Burmeister | | | | | Joined: Sep 2009 Posts: 69 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Sep 2009 Posts: 69 | i noticed your cams but i didn't want to come off as if i were copying you. again, thanks. you have proved to be quite helpful longbox 55. im still gonna dis-assemble the engine. to check to make sure there are no cracks of any sort. and replace gaskets. THANKS
2000 Nissan Frontier, 3.3L (sold) 2006 Chevy Cobalt SS, 2.4L 1952 Chevy 1/2 pickup, 235 c.i. I6 when life speeds up, downshift
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2006 Posts: 76 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2006 Posts: 76 | Be sure to measure the bores in your block when you have it down. Being a '54 engine from a winch truck it could possibly be a 261 - you will have lucked out. They are a stronger engine with more potential. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2009 Posts: 69 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Sep 2009 Posts: 69 | the previous owner said it was a 235. but why not. it couldn't hurt anything
2000 Nissan Frontier, 3.3L (sold) 2006 Chevy Cobalt SS, 2.4L 1952 Chevy 1/2 pickup, 235 c.i. I6 when life speeds up, downshift
| | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | If you want to ID for sure, post the serial number from the machined pad just back of where the distributor mounts. There's also a casting number on the right front side of the block, next to the oil pan rail. You'll also find a casting date on the same side of the block, just behind the starter.
Bill Burmeister | | | | | Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 1,859 Grumpy old guy playing with trucks, cars, and boats | | Grumpy old guy playing with trucks, cars, and boats Joined: Aug 2007 Posts: 1,859 | I would switch to EFI myself for a trouble free truck in the future. do a search for "efi 235" (without quotes) and you will find plenty.
The problems we face today can not be addressed at the same level of intelligence we were at when we created them - Albert Einstein Or with the same level of $ - Me
| | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | Where's the fun in that? 
Bill Burmeister | | |
| |