The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts Fastening bed boards

I'm getting yellow pine for the bed of the truck today, 2x12s, 12 foot long. The cross sills on the bed are 3/16 thick. I figure 4 rows of fasteners with two per board at each cross sill. Flat-head plow bolts would be one option. Recessed pan head screws with washers would be another. If I routed the top of one board and the bottom of the next and overlap I could get by with one fastener per board per cross sill. That would also allow for expansion/contraction without having a gap, just a recess in the surface. This bed will probably be painted black. (If it were pretty I would be hesitant to use it!).

What would you guys recommend?

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I'd look at good old fashioned carriage bolts. Use a forstner or Spade bit to countersink the hole before drilling the bolt hole. I like the idea of routing the edges, maybe a tounge & groove for the overlap to keep warpage down if you only use one bolt per point.
As for finish, maybe look at a deck stain to protect the wood? If you paint it too dark, any scratches/abuse will show up as bright white scars. just a thought anyway.

In my experience the correct board in DSYP is a 2x6, much easier to work with and far less suseptable to splitting. The only time I've seen wider boards are the larch laminates or tropical subspecies like apitong., etc. and they are usually 5/4 thick.
Self drilling 1/4" screws are best for securing floors.

I'm fixin to put the deck in my '59 viking 60. I'm going to use 2x6 DSYP T&G. As far as finish is concerned who votes for deck sealer/stain, varnish, linseed oil, paint or something else?

We used to refloor trailers. Our dry vans now all have aluminum floors. We always used screws so that it was a one man job http://www.imperialinc.com/items.asp?item=0692780 They are available at any semi trailer dealer.

If your not useing T&G watch the end grain of your lumber and get it all turned the same way. I prefer to turn the grain so the board cups up in the middle so it will shed water.