The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Body alignment

Okay I've got a weird one. If you look at my frame head-on, the front bumper which is bolted right on the frame is low on the driver's side and about right on the passenger side. But the passenger side front fender is low so that the hood has a gap, yet is about right on the driver's side. I can't figure out why that would be. I asked a bodyshop and the butthead owner just laughed at me and said I have my work cut out for me. Sheese.

Also, my hood doesn't suck down properly when I close it. It's high on the windshield side. I've found the adjustments under the dash on both sides and adjusted it, and then it sucked down nice the first time, but went back to its old crappy alignment the first time I drove it.

Did these things have body shims to adjust body alignment? If not, and if the fenders just bolt onto the frame, then why the heck would my passenger side fender be low if my driver's side frame rail appears low?

I'm confused.

yes, you might make headway with shims .... don't depend on "looks like" get out the tape measure, the frame could be the problem

do the fenders "just bolt to the frame"? don't they also attach to the cowl and the rad support? is the rad support mounted correctly, with the original style mounts?

the hood not seating at the cowl is usually caused by worn hinges, only sure fix is new ones with new springs

Bill

The bumper is a separate issue. I would think that a 3/4 Ton has bumper supports much like a 1/2 Ton. Check to see if the frame is at the same height on both sides. Usually these old trucks have springs that don't sit exactly the same side to side.

There is a procedure in the manual for setting the back of the hood. If you followed this exactly and it didn't last, something is worn, most likely your hinges.

The entire front clip is adjustable. It pivots or rests on a central support under the rad at the front. You should loosen all the bolts and then use the support rods under the hood to draw the sheet metal into place. The rad saddle support should be very loose while this is done. When you have the right height, the support needs to be shimmed as required. No other shims are used.

Your bumper problem may be something as simple as the bumper brackets being bent with a bumper jack. If so, heat it and straighten it. As mentioned before, the entire front clip is adjustable, but its tedious work. You should get a shop manual.

Great. I get to remove my radiator. I really wish I did this when my engine bay was nice and empty. Well, maybe I should tear into it and try and get my fenders lined up at least. I'll work on the hood too, but won't be able to really get it right until I buy those new hinges.

So if I understand correctly, I need to loosen all bolts holding the front clip pieces forward of the firewall, remove my radiator and loosen the center bolt. Then line everything up using spacers and fender washers as needed, then tighten the center bolt under the radiator support, and then finally, tighten all the other bolts in place.

Thanks guys.

I don't think you need to remove the radiator. When using the support rods to pull the front clip into place, the mount underneath the rad saddle may separate if loosened up. That is how you tell what shims are needed. There is a measurement spec for the support rods in the manual and they are different lef and right.

It helps to have the hood in place to align things.

What works for me on checking the frame. Raise the truck, get it off the suspension. Set the frame up on level jack stands @ the front cab mounts and @ the rear spring front mounts. Then with a "level" you can tell if the frame has a "twist". The cab has to be level and build the front sheet metal starting by bolting the fenders to the cab. Has any of the cab panels been replaced? Maybe necessary to drill new hole locations for the cab/fenders. Another trick is leave the hood assist springs off, so the hood sets on the cowl.