The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Custom Brake Drums

Okay, crazy question here.
Does anyone know if it is possible to get "custom" brake drums. Meaning getting a drum to fit my 3/4 ton, but without the lug holes drilled in them. That way I can have a shop put the lug pattern I want in the drums. Make sense? I know this is a long shot, but saves me from swapping out front ends. I have a 66 3/4 ton with 8 lug in front and 6 lug in rear. I want to keep the truck drum brakes, and don't really want or have the time to swap out front ends.
Thanks!

Hy TomSawyer, if your axles and drums have a large enough flange area, you may ne able to have them redrilled to the pattern you want. Depending on what axle you're working with there may even be some stock parts that will interchange with what you have now to give you what you want, hope that helps.

One problem with that is that the wheel studs are actually mounted in the hub, not the drum. So the hub would also have to be modified. On top of that, using 1/2 ton brakes on the rear and 3/4 on the front may cause a severe brake imbalance, especially if it still has the single circuit master cylinder.
Is there a reason you've put a 1/2 ton rear in it? Or was it in the truck when you got it? I would suggest either putting a 8 lug 3/4 ton rear end in it, possibly from a later truck if a better gear ration is desired, or swaping out the front spindles and balljoints to 1/2 ton components. That way, everything matches.

thanks for the tips. I put the 1/2 ton rear in it for a couple reasons. I looked at later model 3/4 ton axles like the chevy 14 bolt, but they were about 2 inches wider that stock. I didn't want to put the time and money into modifying a 14 bolt only to end up with a 3.73 or possibly a 3.42. I decided on the 1/2 ton because I found a 12 bolt truck rear end that was basically a direct bolt as far as spring perches, etc., and it came with a 3.07 ring and pinion! This truck is never going to work, just a cruiser that I take to work and back (on the freeway) and load a surfboard in on the weekends. The Eaton HO52 4.56 was killing me and the truck! So...the 1/2 ton rear end is much lighter, direct bolt in, the exact ring and pinion I was looking for, got it for $100 bucks. I have a healthy v8 under the hood so the high 3.07 works well for my application. I like your idea with the spindles and ball joints, but I was told somewhere that 1/2 ton ball joints will not fit into 3/4 ton a-arms. Is that correct? I REALLY do not want to lift up the motor and change out the entire front end. Just brought a baby home from the hopital this week and just want to enjoy this nice old rusty truck. Thanks in advance for your help, let me know if you have any ideas!!!

The upper balljoint shouldn't be a problem, as it is a rivetted (factory)/ bolted (aftermarket) part, the bolt pattern is the same regardless of weight class. You'll need Moog # K6024 for the upper. The lower might be an issue, as it is a pressed balljoint. I'm thinking that the main difference is the stud size. If the housing is the same size, then is won't be a problem to swap out to the 1/2 ton balljoint, Moog # K6023. You might check with the flaps, have them mic both a K6023 and a K6025 to see if the knurl on the housing is the same.

Bill,
Thank you much for the info. What do you mean when you talk about "flaps"? When you talk about the "knurl" you are talking about the size of the hole the 1/2 ton ball joint will be pressed into, right? Who would mic this for me?
thanks again, I am going to research this a bit, and if this works I will be SO happy!!!
Tom

flaps= Freindly Local Auto Parts Store. It's one of the many acronyms used on the site.
The knurl I speak of is the outside diameter of the balljoint housing, where it has a "ribbed" section that grips the hole in the control arm. Factory balljoints are usually smooth in that area, as it is an interference fit. Aftermarket balljoints (or at least the good ones) have the ribbing, which makes it slightly oversize and helps it hold tight, especially if the hole isn't quite std size. It's the same concept as the ridged part on a wheel stud. The parts store should be able to mic it for you, a simple dial caliper would be just fine for measuring them.

thanks Bill,
flaps...love it. Our flaps is hit or miss, if the right guy is working it is great, if he isn't, you would be just as well off asking a kid at the ice cream counter.
I am going to take the part #'s you provided and see if he can order them, that way we can put them on the counter and really see what is going on.
So...in a perfect world, if both the upper and lower ball joint fit in my 3/4 ton a-arms, it would just be installing the ball joints, finding some 1/2 ton spindles, hubs, etc., and I am off and running. correct? I have a local guy (within an hour drive) that has about a dozen c-10's he is parting out. He is very accomidating and will even take the parts off for you while you wait. Same guy I bought the differential from.
thanks again, I will let you know what i find out.