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| | | Forums66 Topics128,034 Posts1,055,536 Members48,425 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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For helping keep this great
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 428 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 428 | I painted the cab on my friend's '54 3100 about 3 weeks ago. This was the my first painting in 2 years so I was a bit conservative when spraying the clear. I was trying to avoid causing runs or sags and in doing so the clear didn't flow out very well in some areas. It just doesn't have enough gloss to it.
We are considering wet sanding and recoating the clear. What grit paper should we use for the wetsanding? I am thinking 400 should be the finest to use and still get proper adhesion of the next coat. Is that correct? | | | | | Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 1,388 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2008 Posts: 1,388 | I think you can, and perhaps should go smoother. BUT, I am no expert. Someone else will have more to say. I'll bet though, you'll very much not want to go too deep!! | | | | | Joined: Mar 2009 Posts: 91 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Mar 2009 Posts: 91 | It my very well lift on you. I would first try color sanding with 1500 then 2000 and buffing it out. How much clear did you put on it? I use 2000 and 3000 grit on my DA then buff. It comes out like glass. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 428 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 428 | I put 3 coats but like i said before, I was moving a little fast to avoid runs and sags. I have never sanded and buffed a finish before. Can someone talk me through the process and tell me what we will need to do the job ? | | | | | Joined: Mar 2009 Posts: 91 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Mar 2009 Posts: 91 | OK, I think you will like the results, Get you some 1500 grit wet or dry paper, and a squrit bottle of soapy water. with sand paper on a block to keep it flat (stay away from the edges) sand a spot behind the bed, keeping it wet. Sand it till you get almost all the orange peel out, then switch to 2000 grit and finsh the job. Now get you a buffer (not a grinder it turns to fast) and some foam pads, with rubbing compound start buffing working small areas at a time, then switch pads and a finer grit compound, repeating the prosess then another pad a a glazeing compound. Go to you paint suppler and he can fix you up on all the product that you will need. If you want to get really fancey they make pads to do this with your DA but you better know what your doing or you will go though real fast. ALL good paint jobs have been color sanded. You will be real proud of your self after you see how good this looks after you get it done. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 428 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 428 | Thanks 57, I will give it a shot and see how it turns out. If it looks good we may be doing the whole truck to get a uniform look. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2009 Posts: 91 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Mar 2009 Posts: 91 | You will be, The new base/clear paint jobs don't come out as flat (more orange peel) as the old enamel jobs did. So to get the show or nice shine they need to be buffed out. | | |
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